Things used to be better in the good old days? Well, not necessarily. Watchmaking has always relied on technology and it has evolved together with the machinery, tools and techniques that make watch production possible, simply to keep in tune with the times. For this reason, we’re bringing you “behind the scenes”, at Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, to see how watch parts are made.
Icons stand the test of time. Born in 1969, El Primero (“the first” in Spanish) is still regarded as one of the best and most accurate chronograph movements ever created. Part of a trilogy of automatic chronograph calibres presented coincidentally in 1969, it is the only one that is still produced to date. As Zenith will celebrate the 50thanniversary of this legendary calibre next year, MONOCHROME takes a look back at its history and design.
Miniaturisation has always been one of the watchmaking industry’s main objectives. With the advent of complicated watches and the development of the wristwatch, this issue became critical. Fitting multiple functions into a single movement, which has to remain wearable, requires re-imagining space. This also led to the development of ultra-thin watches, guided initially by a desire for elegance, but also in the framework of constant improvement. Popular since the 1960s but slightly forgotten during the 2000s (with the trend for large timepieces), ultra-thin watches recently made a strong comeback – a trend that has sparked open warfare between Piaget and Bvlgari – amongst others.
In mechanical engineering, compliant mechanisms (monolithic or joint-less structures) are flexible mechanisms that transfer an input force or displacement to another point through elastic body deformation, using the elastic properties of matter to affect the motion of mechanical components. These monolithic, compact and precise components replace several mechanically assembled parts. The absence of mechanical coupling eliminates contact, play, friction, wear, lubrication or dispersions.
Recently we brought you a detailed look at Vaucher, one of the most prominent high-grade mechanical makers for third parties in the watch industry (read our article here). We went back to the Val-de-Travers to take a look at how the movement manufacturer produces openworked movements, including their own calibre 5401.
Very few companies manufacture hairsprings in Switzerland (read our article, Who manufactures hairsprings? See here) Producing this strategic component is a complex, labour intensive process shrouded in secrecy. Very few manufacturers would open their doors to show how they work. Monochrome goes behind the scenes, at E2O innovation, sister company of Schwarz Etienne, to provide an in-depth look at how this independent maker has built a rather impressive structure and expertise in the field.
There are many ways to tell the time: digital watches show us the time using numbers, whereas the first mechanical clocks did not even have faces, and indicated time by chiming it. Hourglasses, candle clocks or clepsydras are other examples. And there’s a segment that we here at Monochrome, refer to as ‘Other Display‘, which include the URWERK’s MB&F’s and Ressence’s of this world. Still, most watches use hands on a dial to show us the hours and minutes, and as is their wont, watchmakers have displayed great creativity in the way they shape hands (for practical or more fancy purposes). These come in a variety of styles and are an integral part of a watch design. It would be tough to come up with an exhaustive list, but we’ll take a look at the most used hand designs from watches we have photographed over the past few months.
The idea sprouted some 40 years ago in the genius mind of a British master craftsman, who worked his way up to become one of the greatest watchmakers of the 20th century. Following numerous attempts to find an escapement that would perform better than the century-old lever escapement, George Daniels eventually designed the “Co-Axial”. This superlative escapement is now at the heart of the vast majority of Omega’s watches and a key element in meeting the remarkable quality requirements set by the brand.
Recently we brought you a detailed look at Vaucher Manufacture, one of the most prominent high-grade mechanical makers for third parties in the watch industry (read our article here). During our visit to the Manufacture we also took the opportunity to go hands-on with Vaucher’s latest development, the Seed VMF 5430. Today we show you an in-depth look at this extra-flat flying tourbillon movement.
The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph Boutique Edition is yet another example of the superlative chronographs, developed by the Haute Horlogerie brand from Glashütte, Germany. We were given the opportunity to test and wear the watch for a couple of weeks. To cut a long story short: we loved it. As we already introduced the watch to you earlier, in this article we will focus on the chronograph movement, more specifically its characteristics, what distinguishes it from other chronograph movements, and how it actually works. It looks great but what is what, and what does what? What is the purpose of all those wheels, levers, bridges and springs? Read on to learn how a chronograph actually works.