Category: Technical Perspective

In-Depth – The Art of Hand-Guillochage at Breguet, Preserving Traditional Crafts

A classic Breguet is easily recognizable, even at first glance. The fluted caseband, the welded lugs, the Breguet hands, the Breguet numerals, the secret signature are some of the immutable codes that make a Breguet a Breguet. The timelessness of the brand resides in a style that was established by Abraham-Louis Breguet over 2 centuries ago. The great watchmaker has got the most profound influence on the horological art. Some of his inventions changed the world of watchmaking: the perfecting of the self-winding with his ‘perpétuelle’ watches, the ‘pare-chute’ shock-protection system, the tourbillon or the Breguet hairspring to name a few. But today, we’ll focus on the art of guilloché or engine-turned dials.

6 years ago

A Technical Perspective – A Guide to the Depth Gauge Watches

If scuba diving is a popular recreational sports, it is a dangerous activity that needs to be properly prepared and monitored. If a diver ascends too quickly, this can lead to decompression illness that can be painful and life-threatening. As depth increases the physiological effects become greater. A reliable dive watch and a depth gauge are essential pieces of a diving gear to monitor depth and track the duration of an underwater adventure. Both are needed for using decompression tables. Traditionally, divers were using a dive watch and a depth gauge, to calculate decompression time at given depths. Today, many divers today choose to dive with a computer but some still use a mechanical depth gauge, even if used only as a backup.

6 years ago

Behind-The-Scenes – Inside Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier – How Exactly are Watch Parts Manufactured?

Things used to be better in the good old days? Well, not necessarily. Watchmaking has always relied on technology and it has evolved together with the machinery, tools and techniques that make watch production possible, simply to keep in tune with the times. For this reason, we’re bringing you “behind the scenes”, at Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, to see how watch parts are made.

6 years ago

In-Depth – The Zenith El Primero – Revisiting One of The Most Iconic Movements Ever

Icons stand the test of time. Born in 1969, El Primero (“the first” in Spanish) is still regarded as one of the best and most accurate chronograph movements ever created. Part of a trilogy of automatic chronograph calibres presented coincidentally in 1969, it is the only one that is still produced to date. As Zenith will celebrate the 50thanniversary of this legendary calibre next year, MONOCHROME takes a look back at its history and design.

6 years ago

A Technical Perspective – The Mighty Return of Ultra-Thin Watches

Miniaturisation has always been one of the watchmaking industry’s main objectives. With the advent of complicated watches and the development of the wristwatch, this issue became critical. Fitting multiple functions into a single movement, which has to remain wearable, requires re-imagining space. This also led to the development of ultra-thin watches, guided initially by a desire for elegance, but also in the framework of constant improvement. Popular since the 1960s but slightly forgotten during the 2000s (with the trend for large timepieces), ultra-thin watches recently made a strong comeback – a trend that has sparked open warfare between Piaget and Bvlgari – amongst others.

7 years ago

A Technical Perspective – The Flexure Revolution, Compliant Mechanisms applied to Watchmaking

In mechanical engineering, compliant mechanisms (monolithic or joint-less structures) are flexible mechanisms that transfer an input force or displacement to another point through elastic body deformation, using the elastic properties of matter to affect the motion of mechanical components. These monolithic, compact and precise components replace several mechanically assembled parts. The absence of mechanical coupling eliminates contact, play, friction, wear, lubrication or dispersions.

7 years ago

A Technical Perspective – How Exactly Hairsprings are Manufactured – Explained with Videos (and thanks to E2O Innovations)

Very few companies manufacture hairsprings in Switzerland (read our article, Who manufactures hairsprings? See here) Producing this strategic component is a complex, labour intensive process shrouded in secrecy. Very few manufacturers would open their doors to show how they work. Monochrome goes behind the scenes, at E2O innovation, sister company of Schwarz Etienne, to provide an in-depth look at how this independent maker has built a rather impressive structure and expertise in the field.

7 years ago

The Hands of Time – A Guide to Names of the most used Watch Hands

There are many ways to tell the time: digital watches show us the time using numbers, whereas the first mechanical clocks did not even have faces, and indicated time by chiming it. Hourglasses, candle clocks or clepsydras are other examples. And there’s a segment that we here at Monochrome, refer to as ‘Other Display‘, which include the URWERK’s MB&F’s and Ressence’s of this world. Still, most watches use hands on a dial to show us the hours and minutes, and as is their wont, watchmakers have displayed great creativity in the way they shape hands (for practical or more fancy purposes). These come in a variety of styles and are an integral part of a watch design. It would be tough to come up with an exhaustive list, but we’ll take a look at the most used hand designs from watches we have photographed over the past few months.

7 years ago

A Technical Perspective – The Omega Co-Axial Escapement Fully Explained

The idea sprouted some 40 years ago in the genius mind of a British master craftsman, who worked his way up to become one of the greatest watchmakers of the 20th century. Following numerous attempts to find an escapement that would perform better than the century-old lever escapement, George Daniels eventually designed the “Co-Axial”. This superlative escapement is now at the heart of the vast majority of Omega’s watches and a key element in meeting the remarkable quality requirements set by the brand.

7 years ago