VIDEO: Breguet’s grand Tradition
The Tradition is a very special watch in Breguet’s prestigious collection. The brand is renowned for their classic style and peerless heritage. The Tradition collection — which debuted in 2005 — epitomises these values while managing to look effortlessly modern. It’s quite a feat. The traditional elements are easy to define — the engine-turned dial, the fluted case, the Breguet hands, that winding rotor. All details that speak directly to Breguet’s past. What makes the watch feel so modern is a little harder to define. There’s a few obvious tells, like the larger size and the use of silicon. And then there’s the harder to define bits, like the unconventional dial side movement and the modern looking (yet actually quite old school) peened finish on the bridges. Really though, it’s one of those whole-is-greater-than-the-sum-of-its-parts situations. Perhaps then, Breguet’s Tradition is like the best traditions — rooted in the past, yet flexible enough to move with modern times. Breguet Tradition 7097 and Breguet Tradition Dame Australian pricing Breguet Tradition 7097 in red gold, $42,000, Tradition Dame in red gold, $49,000
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Watches inspired by military designs are a perennial favourite. Largely, that’s down to the fact that these watches generally possess an overarching purpose. These watches have been designed, first and foremost, as functional objects. The Longines Heritage Military, for example, is a no-frills whistle that tells the time, and tells it quickly, clearly and simply. Of course, that purity of purpose typically flows down to a purity of design, and the Heritage Military — with its clear railroad minute track and simple Arabic numerals, its large, easy to manipulate crown and decorative-yet-functional hands — is exemplary. However, that’s not to say that Longines hasn’t added some contemporary design flourish to their historically inspired piece. Look at the dial. It’s a near-perfect facsimile of a decades-old dial that bears the signs and the patina of a life well lived. However, this dial is brand new. It’s also unique. As a result of the production process, each pattern of flecks and marks on the dial is individual to the watch, which is pretty cool. Longines Heritage Military Australian pricing Longines Heritage Military, $2775
Longines heritage reissues are — much like the designs they’re inspired by — the stuff of legend. And speaking of legends, you might notice that the dial design of the Skin Diver resembles that of the Legend, with distinctive hand sets and long hour and minute markers. That’s because both watches trace their origin back to the Nautilus Skin Diver, Longines’ first dive watch. But while the Legend has an internal bezel, the bezel here is very much your traditional bezel, and black to boot. This, combined with the creamy-toned printing and rich, almost pebbly dial texture (offered on either a tropic style rubber or Milanese mesh) adds up to a watch that more than lives up to its heritage. Also, you’ll be happy to note: no date window. Longines Skin Diver Watch Australian pricing Longines Skin Diver Watch, $3425
For all that skeletonised watches are meant to be about reducing mass, the Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph is a watch with a lot of substance, and much of it ceramic. The case, middle, bezel and bracelet are all made from Rado’s signature material, and have been treated with a range of processes — keeping it interesting on the wrist. Though having said that, the dial also does a fine job in the ‘interesting’ department. Sure, you get a peep into the inner workings of the automatic chronograph movement, along with a quite legible handset, but what I really like is the under-the-dial printing, which is delicate and very much in keeping with Rado’s designer aesthetic. All this, combined with the 45mm case size, adds up to an unmissable watch. The Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph Limited Edition Australian pricing The Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph Limited Edition, limited to 600 pieces, $9475
“Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.” I’m fairly sure Arthur C. Clarke didn’t have Hublot — or even watches — in mind when he made the now famous futurist statement. But it’s certainly something that rings true for Hublot’s latest ceramic marvel. Because while most watch fans are familiar with the use of ceramic in horology these days, there’s still an aura of power and mystique around this oh-so-red watch. We’ve seen polished ceramic before, and we’ve seen red ceramic before (though none-so-vivid as this), and we’ve certainly seen Big Bangs before. But the combination of all three is a little overwhelming and, for me at least, awe-inspiring. Hublot, for all they seem to delight in their role of watch brand provocateur, are showing us glimpses of the future here. And it looks bright. Hublot Big Bang Unico Red Magic Australian pricing and availability Hublot Big Bang Unico Red Magic, limited to 500 pieces, $33,800