VIDEO: Smaller, thinner – the Seiko Astron GPS Solar 5X
Most of the watches we talk about here at Time+Tide are mechanical — if there’s a battery involved, the watch has to be pretty special to get our attention. Well, Seiko’s Astron meets (and exceeds) the ‘pretty special’ criteria. The original Astron watch was released in 2012 (well, if you want to get technical, the original Astron was Seiko’s first quartz watch from 1969), and is significant as it was the world’s first GPS Solar watch, a particularly useful pairing of technology, which means that the watch can ‘talk’ to satellites, ensuring perpetual accuracy, and the solar cells on the dial ensure perpetual power. But cramming these technologies came at a cost — size. The earliest iterations of the Astron wore substantially on the wrist, but that’s something that Seiko has worked on over the years, as this latest generation, powered by the Calibre 5X, proves. In addition to smarter power usage, this Astron clocks in at a very respectable 42.9mm across by 12.2mm wide. It might not be elegant dress watch territory, but for a gadget-heavy daily wearer, it’s impressive. Add titanium construction to the equation and this might just be the best Astron yet. Seiko Astron SSH003J Australian pricing…
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Owning a tourbillon is a dream for many watch-loving folks. The little, eternally whirling cages, designed to counteract the effects of gravity on a timepiece’s isochronism, aren’t particularly practical, though they hold within them a charm that in many ways sums up the appeal of mechanical watches. But for many, the dream of strapping the pinnacle of watchmaking’s craft onto your wrist would always be just that — as, traditionally, tourbillons have come with a very high price tag. And while no one is suggesting that $20,000 is pocket change, when TAG Heuer introduced a Swiss, automatic tourbillon at this very aggressive price point, the industry as a whole took notice. It’s worth pointing out that TAG Heuer was able to achieve this by using more industrial processes in creating the tourbillon, as well as making them at a greater volume than other brands. But still, the Carrera Heuer 02 Tourbillon presents a very strong value proposition and, more importantly, looks great on the wrist, especially in that all-black ceramic case. TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02 Tourbillon Australian pricing and availability TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02 Tourbillon, in black ceramic, $21,750. Available at TAG Heuer boutiques.
As far as cool watch names go, this watch has one of the coolest: I mean, the head of the viper — it doesn’t get much more rock than that. And while the story behind the name is less viper lounge and more viper observatory, the watch itself easily lives up to its rock star name. It’s big, it’s blue, it’s made of ceramic and has a freaking tourbillon in it. What more could you want? Not much. Even the strap, alligator backed with rubber, is cool. And while the watch is hardly an object lesson in subtlety, I was surprised at how well the whole package works together — no single element overpowers the others. I was expecting this watch to be all about that blue ceramic case, but the blue is refreshingly muted, which makes for a watch I would easily wear, even though I’m not a rock star … TAG Heuer’s Carrera Calibre 02 Tourbillon Tête de Vipère Australian pricing and availability TAG Heuer’s Carrera Calibre 02 Tourbillon Tête de Vipère, $26,750, available at TAG Heuer boutiques.
A few weeks ago I travelled to Rome to check out the Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting, a GMT not like any other. And in between the first-look video, horse racing and spectacular rooftop launches, we thought we’d do some sightseeing around Rome and put the V.H.P. GMT through its paces as a travel watch. Now, of all the ‘genres’ of watches, the travel watch is one of the most subjective. There’s no handy ISO standard to hold it against, nor is there a clearly established design tradition. There’s only subjective taste. With that little caveat out of the way, I’d be quite comfortable putting my money where my mouth is and saying that this Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting is a near-perfect travel watch for the 21st century. Why? Well, first of all, it looks good. It’s stylistically versatile — important if you’re on the road with one watch and need it to cover a range of sartorial duties. It’s also not too flashy. I don’t know about you, but I don’t want to be traipsing strange corners of the globe, in unfamiliar places where I don’t speak the language, in a watch that might stand out…
Since their dramatic reboot in 2012, Tudor has continually upped the game. From the original Black Bay, to the development of in-house movements, new case materials, and complications like the chronograph, every year brings a new surprise. Based on this track record, I’m always excited to see what Tudor will do next with the Black Bay, not least because of the element of brinkmanship at play. Well, this year Tudor outdid themselves once again with the Heritage Black Bay GMT. It’s a hot watch. Not just because of its obvious good looks — I mean, just look at that bezel — it’s also an extremely high-quality offering, which can be said for all Tudor’s pieces, and it’s also technically impressive, with its brand new ‘true’ GMT. Really, it’s the complete package. Classic style, quality build and a compelling price. What’s not to like? Tudor Heritage Black Bay GMT Australian pricing Tudor Heritage Black Bay GMT, on bracelet, $4670
Since its introduction in 2014, Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang collection has quietly been gaining momentum. The tonneau-shaped case sacrifices none of the immediate impact that Hublot is famous for, but shapes it into a more wrist-hugging form. And while the line is — as you’d expect from Hublot — full of options, this smaller, 42mm Spirit of Big Bang King Gold Blue is a real standout. The case is stunning, with the blue details providing a perfect foil to the richness of the red gold, while the smaller size makes for a watch that you could legitimately wear in more formal settings. It’s attention-seeking, but not in the same way as the Sapphire Rainbow, or one of their bright ceramic pieces, like the Red Magic. If you like the Hublot aesthetic, and are looking for a gold power watch that won’t overwhelm, this is a very solid option. Hublot Spirit of Big Bang King Gold Blue Australian pricing Hublot Spirit of Big Bang King Gold Blue, $52,700
If we’re completely honest, it’s hard to make quartz technology sexy. Which makes the achievement of Longines’ V.H.P. technology even more remarkable. Not only do these quartz Conquests look the part, with clean, slightly sporty style and some very nice dials, the movement ticking away inside has a host of features dedicated to improving accuracy — which, at +5/-5 seconds a year, is pretty hard to beat, outside of an atomic clock. The latest member of the family has just been unveiled in Rome — the Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting. As you might expect, it adds a second time zone to the equation, but has a few tricks up its sleeve. First of all, you can use the crown to quickly switch which time zone is displayed on the ‘primary’ hours and minutes hands, meaning that if I was taking off from Melbourne, I’d show local Melbourne time on the main hands, and Rome time on the GMT hand. When I land, a quick press of the crown means that the main hands switch to Roman time, while Melbourne time is there on the GMT. But the handy tricks don’t stop there. The real star of the show…
When someone’s watch story starts in the backstreets of Havana, you know it’s going to be good. In fact, it would be a good story, even if the watch itself didn’t match up to the tale. Luckily for all involved, Adam’s oversized mid-century Longines, double signed with famous retailer Cuervo y Sobrinos, stands up. On its own, the watch is big and attention-seeking, but it’s really the fancy dial that steals the show. Even more so when we learn that the dial is made to resemble a poker chip from the (in)famous Hotel Plaza, which was owned and operated by the Philadelphia Mob in the 1950s, up until 1959, when they were turfed out by Fidel Castro. We often talk about vintage watches having their own stories, and here the tale is twofold. There’s the story of how Adam acquired it, which is pretty great (backstreet sales trump eBay every time), and then there’s the unknown story, of who bought it and why. I don’t know about you, but I think I prefer the possibilities offered by speculation to the cold hard facts of history.