VIDEO: Our favourite watches of SIHH 2018 – part 3, $20,000-30,000
With parts one and two of our SIHH video series receding into our proverbial rear-view mirror, it’s time to look to the future, and the future is looking, well, expensive. Today, we’re well and truly in the realm of serious horology. And, as with yesterday, we’re keen to avoid spoilers, so to find out what Andrew, Sandra and Justin would choose if they had a spare $20-30K in their pockets, hit play. I do think it’s only fair to warn you that we’re a tad disorganised at the start of this one. However, I’ll spill the beans on my pick — the IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition ‘150 years’. Now, to be honest, I didn’t pick it for the less-than-pithy name but rather the fact that it’s a watch that looks back at IWC’s heritage and honours it. For me, the red gold, white and blue Portugieser Nailed. It.
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Yesterday, we ran through our picks of SIHH 2018 at the more accessible end of the spectrum, bearing in mind that the HH in SIHH stands for ‘High Horology’. Today, we kick it up a notch, looking at watches that come in between $10-$20k. There are a lot of meaty options in this price point, something that’s reflected in the fairly diverse opinions of Sandra, Andrew, Justin and myself – as we’ve picked out simple, time-only pieces as well as some more complex pieces. I’m not going to spoil the surprise (or the LOLs), but take, for example, Justin’s pick – the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph WT, a watch that is just over the top end of our budget but offers a strong mix of world time and chronograph complication in a stylish sports case and with a pretty exceptional movement. Or, as Justin puts it: “I’ve always found it hard to find a nice world time chronograph with more then 30-minute registers. It drives me bonkers.” We hear you, Justin, we hear you. Now, onto our top watches of SIHH 2018, between $10,000 and $20,000, Stay tuned as things get more expensive tomorrow.
In the midst of the hectic schedules and bustling halls of SIHH, Andrew and myself, along with freelancers Sandra Lane and Justin Mastine-Frost, found a spare hour to sit down in front of the steady lens of Marcus’ camera to discuss our favourite watch of SIHH — while they were fresh. But rather than just cherry-pick the (many) exceptional watches on offer, we opted to make things a bit trickier by breaking the watches down by price. So, in part one of our four-part mini-series we talk about the (roughly) sub-$10,000 price point. So, here are (what we think) are the best watches of SIHH 2018 – under $10,000. Stay tuned for the other instalments. Sandra’s pick – the Hermès Carré H “It’s lovely, the shape of it as it goes onto the wrist is almost like a bathtub.” Felix’s pick – the Montblanc 1858 Chronograph (in bronze) “It’s a really good, strong, general-appeal chronograph.” Andrew’s pick – the Cartier Santos de Cartier “Cartier are acknowledging a lot of broader trends in the way they’ve packaged this up.” Justin’s pick – the Zenith CP-2 Flyback Bronze “It looks stunning. Bronze is everywhere now – I’ve got a soft spot for it…
The more distance and time I’ve had to reflect on SIHH 2018, the more I’m inclined to think that the calibre of the exhibiting collections was – overall – very high. The very top end of town was well represented but of more interest to me (and I suspect a lot of you reading this), the offerings at the less stratospheric price points were plentiful, interesting and attractive. Case in point – Montblanc. Montblanc’s hero collections were the greatly expanded and slightly re-imagined 1858 collection, and the classically styled Star Legacy, both full of the sort of value-packed, thoughtful watches that Montblanc have become synonymous with lately. But really, for me it was the 1858 that was the star of the line-up, what with their rugged charms and easy wrist appeal. Make sure to watch the video for a full overview, but to my mind, these three regular production 1858 watches are the ones to watch. Montblanc 1858 Geosphere With its twin, rotating hemispheres and ceramic compass bezel this twin-time watch was one of Montblanc’s real talking points. It’s offered in a regular production steel model or a limited bronze case, bund strap combo that’s Reinhold Messner levels of awesome. Montblanc…
Ulysse Nardin showed a refreshingly diverse collection at SIHH, with everything from clean, simple (dare we say, classic) designs, all the way up to the incredibly complex and cutting edge. So, as you can imagine, our favourite picks cover off both ends of the spectrum, from daily wear to more special occasion pieces. And while we kept our focus to four models, there’s a few honourable mentions, particularly the new Torpilleur models, and the epic Deep Dive. Ulysse Nardin Classico Last year, we were collectively besotted by the blue enamel, guilloche Classico. This year, we fell in love all over again with this new, inky black-dialled beauty. Simple, but refined. RRP $12,995 (indicative) Ulysse Nardin Marine Tourbillon To be honest, Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Tourbillon is one of the leaders in its class. First released last year with a white enamel dial, it was a a very pure execution of the design. This time around, the design is a lot flashier, thanks to the guilloche-finished bleu enamel dial, which just sings under the light. RRP $41,700 (indicative) Ulysse Nardin Freak Vision And here’s where we depart from the world of classical design for the aggressively modern. The Freak is a genuine…
For over 30 years the Portofino has been amongst IWC’s dressiest offerings, with a rounded Lépine-inspired case, and elegant, elongated Roman numerals. So it comes as no surprise that the line has a prominent place in IWC’s 150th anniversary collection. And while there’s simpler offerings, such as the Automatic and the Chronograph, our eyes (and hearts) were drawn to the more complex Hand-Wound Moon Phase Edition “150 Years”. Looking at the watch its easy to see why. 45mm of rich red gold protecting the calibre 59800, with moon phase and power reserve, all topped off with that deep, deep blue dial, with gold details (like that oh-so-romantic moon). It might not be a dress watch in the typical, diminutive sense, but there’s no denying its a showstopper. IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase Edition “150 Years” Australian pricing and availability IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase Edition “150 Years in red gold, limited to 150 pieces, $34,200.
If you’ve been paying attention to my recent spate of best-of/top lists (and if you haven’t, what’s wrong with you?!), you’ll know that I have a sense of style and taste that is dazzling in its brilliance, mercurial in its consistency, and as sophisticated as white tie at a garden party. I’ve recently sung my praises for gem-set wonders, hi-tech wrist gadgets that stretch the conceptual definition of ‘watch’, and occasionally a smaller, vintage-inspired piece. So, going into SIHH 2018, knowing that I’d have to come up with a smart, snappy and sassy ‘top 5’ a few days later, I was filled with wonder and anticipation. Would I be drawn to outstanding statement pieces (the thinnest, the expensivest, the eroticest) or would I rein myself in and keep it real? Nobody knew, least of all myself … until now. So, without any further superlative (or is that superfluous?) waffle – here’s my SIHH top 5. Cartier Santos de Cartier A smart reworking of an icon that manages to be — depending on which option you opt for — either totally OTT (that’d be the full yellow gold) or perfect for everyday office (steel on leather, obvs). But it’s the user-friendly…
I’m not above admitting it. I’m more than just a bit painful when it comes to painted versus printed dials. “Is this painted or printed?” is a question I’ve asked countless times. Receiving countless eye-rolls, I might add. And, full disclosure, I’ve always assumed that the colour, paint volume and line-perfect proportions of Franck Muller dials are the latter. Printed. But when I attended the Franck Muller ‘chalet’ (such a more appropriate descriptor than ‘manufacture’) for a second time, early in 2017, I asked the question and was met with a very different answer, which also happened to be a question. “They’re painted,” said my soon-to-be nemesis from Franck Muller, Laura Bondi. “Would you like to try painting one yourself?” Sure, but only if she tried to paint one too. The next hour of my life taught me a lot about the extraordinary skill required to make the watches we love — mostly by showing me how ordinary my own skills are in comparison.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph WT is, in marked contrast to the Polaris Automatic, a complex beast indeed, with (as you could probably guess) both chronograph and world time functionality in the one case. It’s not the first time we’ve seen this complication-combo, as the very impressive Calibre 752 pops up in sportier parts of their collection. But while previous incarnations have been quite modern in their style, the bi-compax chrono and world time are well suited to the old-world inspired looks of the Polaris. Nothing vintage about the case though – this 44mm titanium number is thoroughly modern. And, sure, all the extra information on the dial does complicate the cleaner design codes of the Polaris line, but the key features are there: the range of varied dial finishes, the applied trapezoid markers, the black and ocean blue colouring. And all that extra dial detail makes for a much richer on-the-wrist experience. With its functional design, wearer-friendly lightweight case rated to 100m, solid 65 hours of power reserve and undeniable charms, the Polaris Chronograph WT is a strong option for fans of JLC’s complex offerings who crave a more classic look.