VIDEO: The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra – is it the only watch you need?
One of the secrets of the Omega Aqua Terra’s success is its versatile charm. In its dark-dialled and gold incarnations it’s super dressed-up, but put it on a leather or rubber strap and it becomes a much more casual proposition. This is a watch that could pull tuxedo duty or go with board shorts (and the 150 metres of water resistance means it’s safe to take swimming) with equal ease. But no matter how you wear it, you won’t find it boring. The flash of the polished hands and applied indices ensure that, as does the shimmering, patterned dial. And then, of course, there are its more functional charms. It’s now a Master Chronometer-certified watch, which means that it is tough and accurate, and, in the larger size, has a nifty quick jump hour that’s super useful for travellers. Flexible style and feature-packed? That’s why we think the Omega Aqua Terra is one of the best contenders for ‘only watch’ status we’ve seen this year.
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One of the great paradoxes of the Swiss watch industry is that, broadly speaking, it is locked into a cycle that demands shiny new watch releases (often referred to as novelties) on a yearly basis. Pretty much without exception, these are all watches that are often intended to last a generation or three. What this means is that many watch brands continually offer new case materials, dial colours or combinations of complications to tempt us to change our wristwear. It’s a strong-willed watch lover indeed who can resist this siren call, but really, the latest is not always the greatest. Sometimes it’s a better play to go for timeless, and stylish. Which is where Rado’s Coupole Classic comes in; it is a sensibly sized dress watch with an aesthetic that neatly marries Swiss tradition with the chic industrial design Rado is often associated with. As a result the Coupole Classic is a solid automatic option for everyday duties. It’s simple, but with enough detail in the waffle-style dial, blued hands and power reserve to keep it interesting on the wrist. Rado Coupole Classic Australian pricing Rado Coupole Classic, steel on leather, $2225
When we think Rado, we tend not to think chunky, ’70s-inspired dive watch. We’re much more likely to lean towards chic ceramic minimalism, or perhaps this year’s surprise hit, the Captain Cook. Which is why the HyperChrome 1616 is such a standout, though the impressive 46mm case helps too. Of course, Rado are a brand with a high-tech rep to protect, so don’t expect them to use anything as simple as steel for the case material. Instead they’ve crafted two takes on the theme – one in black ceramic, the other in hardened titanium. The ceramic version is the more modern of the two, lightweight and ultra-hard, thanks to the case, painstakingly crafted from a mix of black ceramic feedstock and polymer binder that’s then injection moulded and sintered at about 1450 degrees celsius. It is then finally given the mix of brushed and polished finishes on the 1616 case. The hardened titanium version is no less impressive (and far more retro in appearance). It has been treated so that it’s four times harder than steel. Add to these hi-tech cases the fact that you get a modified ETA that’s good for 80 hours, and the competitive pricing, and there’s a lot to…
Tudor’s Black Bay has evolved from a straight-up tool-like diver to an all-encompassing collection that has your wrist covered from dress to diver and any point in between. The Black Bay 41 is the dressier face of the line. Simple steel but not lacking in polish (both on the case and in the style sense), the BB 41 is a larger incarnation of last year’s Black Bay 36. This watch doesn’t stray too far from the winning formula, offering everyday functionality and a strong graphic design. All in a size that’s much more palatable for many more men. Tudor Heritage Black Bay 41 Australian pricing Tudor Heritage Black Bay 41 on leather, $3150; on steel $3500
Grand Seiko is known for many things: mirror-like finishes, incredibly crisp casework and a design style that veers from conservative to downright quirky. But this is not a brand that springs to mind when you think of professional-grade dive watches. Until now. At Basel this year Grand Seiko released this mighty beast that we (in the best tradition of Seiko-related nicknames) have dubbed ‘The Kraken’. Now to be honest, unless you’ve got arms like Dwayne Johnson, I’m willing to bet you don’t have the wrist presence to rock this 46.9mm-wide by 16.9mm-thick behemoth (which is surprisingly light, thanks to the titanium construction). However, that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t give it a go, especially given the suitably grand level of fit and finish on display. And while the blue dial is our pick, it’s quite limited at 500 pieces, so the regular-edition black-dialled version might be the easier fish to land. Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m (refs. SBGH255, SBGH257) Australian pricing and availability Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m, ref. SBGH255, $14,200; the blue-dialled SBGH257, limited to 500 pieces, $14,600
If you’re ‘into’ watches, it’s easy to fall into a perception that a higher price naturally equates to higher value and quality. However, Seiko’s colourful and decidedly wallet-friendly Presage Cocktail Time turns these assumptions on their head, with an RRP well south of $1000 and a wrist presence that can compete with watches 10 times the price. Simply put, the Cocktail Time is a winner because it’s fun, and that’s mostly down to the dials. Take that away and you have a well-priced 40mm steel dress watch. Nice, but unremarkable. The Cocktail Time takes classic dressy tropes and turns the fun factor all the way up. There are bright colours, interesting textures, reflections and a dazzling play of light. The only way this watch could be more of a party would be if Seiko popped an actual disco ball on the wrist (I wouldn’t put it past them). And, of course, the cocktail association doesn’t hurt the cause either. Seiko has smartly made the boozy link explicit, matching the icy-blue dial with a Sky Diving, the brown with a Manhattan and the deep blue with a Moonlit Night (more on this later…), allowing you to identify with your favourite in…
It’s been a tough year for the luxury watch industry, and though things seem to be picking up now, the mood at SIHH in January could be described as reserved at best. One of the shining lights in a muted firmament was Jaeger-LeCoultre. Specifically, their newest Master Control release was a trilogy of watches celebrating the line’s 25th anniversary. Offered in date, chronograph and dual time configurations, these three watches shared JLC’s highly regarded movements, simple steel cases and vintage-inspired sector dials that transformed them from conservative classics into conversation starters. However, these watches didn’t just impress because of their style but also because of their refreshingly sensible price points. Other brands would do well to follow JLC’s sterling example. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Australian pricing Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date, $8300 Master Chronograph, $11,700, Master Geographic $13,900.
I’m on the record as saying “I’m not a chronograph guy”, and, by and large, that’s true. However, there are exceptions, and this year’s Master Chronograph from Jaeger-LeCoultre is definitely one of them. Like the rest of the collection, it’s a smart, simple design that’s clearly vintage in inspiration but doesn’t suffer from retro overload. In addition to the good looks, JLC has deilvered the perfectly sized package at 40mm, and the movement is, as you would expect from the brand, top notch. In fact, the only negative point for me is that such a great movement is hidden away behind a solid back. But that’s really the only hole I can pick in what is otherwise an exceptionally pretty picture. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Chronograph Australian Pricing Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Chronograph in steel, $11,700
As Sandra so helpfully informed us yesterday, Cartier introduced the Tank Américaine in 1989. A bulked-up version of the Cintrée, with broad, muscly brancards, this Tank managed to capture not just the spirit of the times but also the bold, entrepreneurial spirit of the continent for which is was named. I can’t help but think that if Wall Street had been made a few years later, Michael Douglas would have been wearing an Américaine instead of a Santos. This year, as part of its Tank centenary celebrations, Cartier has released three new Tank Américaine models, in small, medium and large. And while the form is fundamentally the same as the 1989 model (and, indeed, the 1917 version), the big news is the case, which is — for the first time — steel. Not only does this give the Américaine more of a utilitarian, casual feel, it makes wearing a Tank every day a real proposition. Cartier Tank Américaine in steel Australian Pricing Cartier Tank Américaine, steel on alligator, $8050
At some point on my watch journey, I made a resolution to resist all the shiny new things that get paraded in front of us daily and just start collecting the icons. The classics. The unquestioned cornerstones of modern watchmaking. Watches whose aesthetic, technological and for-the-good-of-humankind breakthroughs still resonate today. How’s that working out for me? Hmmm, there have been occasional slip-ups, and some redefinitions of what is “iconic” (Nomos makes modern classics, right?) but acquiring a TAG Heuer Monaco was to be a satisfying tick of the square-watch box. The only problem was, when I went to pull the trigger, there was an unexpected dilemma, a crossroads with two signposts – one pointing to a version powered by the Calibre 11 (reference CAW211P) and the other running off the Calibre 12 (reference CAW2111). Both have their merits, and both have a surprisingly legitimate connection to the original model, so which one would it be? The Calibre 12’s metallic starburst dial is more faithful to the very first blue-and-grey metallic dialled models in 1969. But the Calibre 11 is pretty much a dead ringer for the 1971 McQueen… decisions, decisions, decisions! I used the backdrop of the city of Monaco…