VIDEO: Access all areas in the Franck Muller Tourbillon Department
There have been big changes at the Franck Muller manufacture over the last couple of years. The once homely property on a hillside looking out over Lake Geneva has been thoroughly expanded and modernised – Baroque and Romanesque flourishes inside and out have been updated to the more spacious proportions created by exposed beams and vaulted ceilings, all befitting of a luxurious ski lodge. Somewhere in a light-filled room appointed with watchmaker’s benches in this village of multi-storey buildings is the Franck Muller ‘Tourbillon Department’. The warmest thing in this room, no matter the time of year, is Patrice Couston’s smile. He is the head of the Department and his passion for what he does is unmistakeable. To the extent that, after a tour and his explanation of some of the challenges faced in by one attempting to assemble a tourbillon, he reached into his pocket and pulled out a watch he had assembled in his spare time at home, also a tourbillon. “I’m crazy for the tourbillon so I said ok, I will transform this movement into a tourbillon. So I did.”
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For years, Ulysse Nardin has been something of an insider’s brand with a solid heritage and catalogue boasting some legitimately impressive horology (we’re looking at you, Freak). Their strongest line has, in my opinion, always been the historically inspired Marine collection, based on the brand’s historic marine chronometers which date back to the middle of the 19th century. These days the Marine watches are less about navigation and more about a mix of everyday classicism with a sporty edge. Dressy Roman numerals paired with integrated lugs and rubber straps. The recently released Marine Torpilleur evolves this concept further and is a watch designed to appeal to a broader audience. Like the torpedo boats it was named after, the Torpilleur packs a hefty punch in a slim, deceptively simple package. The case is significantly simplified, paired with a very handsome dial and powered by the brand’s own silicone-packed calibre. All this offered at quite a competitive price point. It’s a watch intended to get UN’s name out there, and, combined with headline grabbers like the Marine Regatta and the InnoVision 2, the Torpilleur is well placed to play a key role in the rise of Ulysse Nardin. Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer…
When you visit the heart and home of Longines, at Saint Imier in the Switzerland’s Jura valley, the brand’s link with skiing is immediately demystified. This is a skiers paradise, and in the early days of the sport’s timekeeping in the 1920s, the Longines watchmakers would not have had to travel far to test their latest custom-built mechanical chronometre. What I also discovered at the Longines museum was that their involvement in sport has spanned more than just equestrian and Alpine skiing related events. The list of innovations in the pursuit of timekeeping precision is impressive and pretty cool to witness firsthand. Today’s focus though, is skiing – and how a simple (but monstrously large) chronograph to time downhill events has evolved into some cutting-edge tech, as explained by Longines President Walter von Känel. 
I can honestly think of few watch/car matches more perfect than that of Hublot and Ferrari. The two occupy similar positions in their respective ecosystems: big, bold, and yes, even brash — but also instantly recognisable and intensely coveted. But beyond that, the carmaker and watchmaker share a fearless approach to design and performance, and a tendency to do things their own way. Take LaFerrari for example — both the watch and the car. Although, not every collaboration between these two passion invoking brands is quite as intense as LaFerrari, as this latest limited edition Big Bang Unico demonstrates. At first glance, this watch is very, very clearly a Hublot. But on further inspection the automotive touches become clear. There are the dial details – from the obvious horse to the slightly more subtle speedo-esque minutes counter – and Ferrari yellow date wheel. And then there are the design touches that speak more clearly to the principles and values of Ferrari’s approach to design; the ergonomics of the crown shroud, the shape of the chronograph pushers, and the recessed bezel screws. What this means is that the latest generation of the Big Bang Ferrari is the most finely evolved, full of unique…
Yes, I know — this isn’t a watch. So what are we doing talking about it? Well, when we met with Montblanc to talk about their inaugural smartwatch – the Summit – they also showed us their Augmented Paper. Suffice to say, we were confused, fascinated… and when we saw it in action, impressed. Aside from the technology and how seamlessly it worked, the real standout is the fact that Montblanc is playing in this space at all. It would be easy for the brand to lean on their heritage status and stick to the tried and true formula of writing instruments, leatherwear and timepieces. To be sure, we’re not suggesting that these connected objects will replace the Meisterstück et al as core business, but it demonstrates that Montblanc is invested in keeping pace with the evolution of writing and the written word while ensuring their relevance in contemporary and future workplaces.
TAG Heuer’s avant-garde new take on the classic Carrera, the Heuer 01, has become an increasingly bright – and big – star in the brand’s firmament since its release in 2015. TAG Heuer have used the modular case as a vehicle to release everything from tourbillons to smartwatches. The only bone of contention thus far has been the size. 45mm is not small by any means, especially when you factor in the height of the Heuer 01 movement. The new (slightly) smaller 43mm version is a smart solution. Make no mistake — it’s still a large statement watch, but slightly less intense on the wrist than the mighty 45mm version. You might say this latest Heuer 01 offers the best of both worlds.
When smartwatches burst onto wrists in a big way with the Apple Watch and its Android powered competitors, the response from the Swiss hegemony lacked a single clear message. Some brands spurned the very concept of a luxury smartwatch, while others wholeheartedly embraced this new frontier. A few years on and the landscape has changed, with the large luxury groups seeing potential in this relatively new market segment. At the Richemont group, the smart push is spearheaded by Montblanc and their traditionally styled Summit watch. Funnily enough, it’s the fact that the brand has gone to great efforts to make the Montblanc Summit look as much like a traditional watch as possible that makes it stand out from the other more avant-garde offerings. The Summit is well-suited to be a device cohesively integrated into your life — and not be relegated to the role of a glorified fitness tracker. Prices for the Summit start at $1330 AUD.
All this week we’ve been asking people what Panerai means to them, and we couldn’t think of a better way of wrapping it up than hearing from Panerai collector – and a man with an eye for fine design – Michael S. Michael, or Mickey to most, manages to sum up just what makes Panerai great in under a minute. The key features that Panerai initially developed were with naval warfare in mind. They resulted in a watch that is (paradoxically) both under the radar and instantly recognisable. Far from being a trend-driven brand, it’s the fact that the watches have remained so true to this original, entirely functional design that makes Panerai special.