VIDEO: Wrist appeal – the Tudor Black Bay 41
Tudor’s Black Bay has evolved from a straight-up tool-like diver to an all-encompassing collection that has your wrist covered from dress to diver and any point in between. The Black Bay 41 is the dressier face of the line. Simple steel but not lacking in polish (both on the case and in the style sense), the BB 41 is a larger incarnation of last year’s Black Bay 36. This watch doesn’t stray too far from the winning formula, offering everyday functionality and a strong graphic design. All in a size that’s much more palatable for many more men. Tudor Heritage Black Bay 41 Australian pricing Tudor Heritage Black Bay 41 on leather, $3150; on steel $3500
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Grand Seiko is known for many things: mirror-like finishes, incredibly crisp casework and a design style that veers from conservative to downright quirky. But this is not a brand that springs to mind when you think of professional-grade dive watches. Until now. At Basel this year Grand Seiko released this mighty beast that we (in the best tradition of Seiko-related nicknames) have dubbed ‘The Kraken’. Now to be honest, unless you’ve got arms like Dwayne Johnson, I’m willing to bet you don’t have the wrist presence to rock this 46.9mm-wide by 16.9mm-thick behemoth (which is surprisingly light, thanks to the titanium construction). However, that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t give it a go, especially given the suitably grand level of fit and finish on display. And while the blue dial is our pick, it’s quite limited at 500 pieces, so the regular-edition black-dialled version might be the easier fish to land. Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m (refs. SBGH255, SBGH257) Australian pricing and availability Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m, ref. SBGH255, $14,200; the blue-dialled SBGH257, limited to 500 pieces, $14,600
If you’re ‘into’ watches, it’s easy to fall into a perception that a higher price naturally equates to higher value and quality. However, Seiko’s colourful and decidedly wallet-friendly Presage Cocktail Time turns these assumptions on their head, with an RRP well south of $1000 and a wrist presence that can compete with watches 10 times the price. Simply put, the Cocktail Time is a winner because it’s fun, and that’s mostly down to the dials. Take that away and you have a well-priced 40mm steel dress watch. Nice, but unremarkable. The Cocktail Time takes classic dressy tropes and turns the fun factor all the way up. There are bright colours, interesting textures, reflections and a dazzling play of light. The only way this watch could be more of a party would be if Seiko popped an actual disco ball on the wrist (I wouldn’t put it past them). And, of course, the cocktail association doesn’t hurt the cause either. Seiko has smartly made the boozy link explicit, matching the icy-blue dial with a Sky Diving, the brown with a Manhattan and the deep blue with a Moonlit Night (more on this later…), allowing you to identify with your favourite in…
It’s been a tough year for the luxury watch industry, and though things seem to be picking up now, the mood at SIHH in January could be described as reserved at best. One of the shining lights in a muted firmament was Jaeger-LeCoultre. Specifically, their newest Master Control release was a trilogy of watches celebrating the line’s 25th anniversary. Offered in date, chronograph and dual time configurations, these three watches shared JLC’s highly regarded movements, simple steel cases and vintage-inspired sector dials that transformed them from conservative classics into conversation starters. However, these watches didn’t just impress because of their style but also because of their refreshingly sensible price points. Other brands would do well to follow JLC’s sterling example. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Australian pricing Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date, $8300 Master Chronograph, $11,700, Master Geographic $13,900.
I’m on the record as saying “I’m not a chronograph guy”, and, by and large, that’s true. However, there are exceptions, and this year’s Master Chronograph from Jaeger-LeCoultre is definitely one of them. Like the rest of the collection, it’s a smart, simple design that’s clearly vintage in inspiration but doesn’t suffer from retro overload. In addition to the good looks, JLC has deilvered the perfectly sized package at 40mm, and the movement is, as you would expect from the brand, top notch. In fact, the only negative point for me is that such a great movement is hidden away behind a solid back. But that’s really the only hole I can pick in what is otherwise an exceptionally pretty picture. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Chronograph Australian Pricing Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Chronograph in steel, $11,700
As Sandra so helpfully informed us yesterday, Cartier introduced the Tank Américaine in 1989. A bulked-up version of the Cintrée, with broad, muscly brancards, this Tank managed to capture not just the spirit of the times but also the bold, entrepreneurial spirit of the continent for which is was named. I can’t help but think that if Wall Street had been made a few years later, Michael Douglas would have been wearing an Américaine instead of a Santos. This year, as part of its Tank centenary celebrations, Cartier has released three new Tank Américaine models, in small, medium and large. And while the form is fundamentally the same as the 1989 model (and, indeed, the 1917 version), the big news is the case, which is — for the first time — steel. Not only does this give the Américaine more of a utilitarian, casual feel, it makes wearing a Tank every day a real proposition. Cartier Tank Américaine in steel Australian Pricing Cartier Tank Américaine, steel on alligator, $8050
At some point on my watch journey, I made a resolution to resist all the shiny new things that get paraded in front of us daily and just start collecting the icons. The classics. The unquestioned cornerstones of modern watchmaking. Watches whose aesthetic, technological and for-the-good-of-humankind breakthroughs still resonate today. How’s that working out for me? Hmmm, there have been occasional slip-ups, and some redefinitions of what is “iconic” (Nomos makes modern classics, right?) but acquiring a TAG Heuer Monaco was to be a satisfying tick of the square-watch box. The only problem was, when I went to pull the trigger, there was an unexpected dilemma, a crossroads with two signposts – one pointing to a version powered by the Calibre 11 (reference CAW211P) and the other running off the Calibre 12 (reference CAW2111). Both have their merits, and both have a surprisingly legitimate connection to the original model, so which one would it be? The Calibre 12’s metallic starburst dial is more faithful to the very first blue-and-grey metallic dialled models in 1969. But the Calibre 11 is pretty much a dead ringer for the 1971 McQueen… decisions, decisions, decisions! I used the backdrop of the city of Monaco…
There have been big changes at the Franck Muller manufacture over the last couple of years. The once homely property on a hillside looking out over Lake Geneva has been thoroughly expanded and modernised – Baroque and Romanesque flourishes inside and out have been updated to the more spacious proportions created by exposed beams and vaulted ceilings, all befitting of a luxurious ski lodge. Somewhere in a light-filled room appointed with watchmaker’s benches in this village of multi-storey buildings is the Franck Muller ‘Tourbillon Department’. The warmest thing in this room, no matter the time of year, is Patrice Couston’s smile. He is the head of the Department and his passion for what he does is unmistakeable. To the extent that, after a tour and his explanation of some of the challenges faced in by one attempting to assemble a tourbillon, he reached into his pocket and pulled out a watch he had assembled in his spare time at home, also a tourbillon. “I’m crazy for the tourbillon so I said ok, I will transform this movement into a tourbillon. So I did.”
For years, Ulysse Nardin has been something of an insider’s brand with a solid heritage and catalogue boasting some legitimately impressive horology (we’re looking at you, Freak). Their strongest line has, in my opinion, always been the historically inspired Marine collection, based on the brand’s historic marine chronometers which date back to the middle of the 19th century. These days the Marine watches are less about navigation and more about a mix of everyday classicism with a sporty edge. Dressy Roman numerals paired with integrated lugs and rubber straps. The recently released Marine Torpilleur evolves this concept further and is a watch designed to appeal to a broader audience. Like the torpedo boats it was named after, the Torpilleur packs a hefty punch in a slim, deceptively simple package. The case is significantly simplified, paired with a very handsome dial and powered by the brand’s own silicone-packed calibre. All this offered at quite a competitive price point. It’s a watch intended to get UN’s name out there, and, combined with headline grabbers like the Marine Regatta and the InnoVision 2, the Torpilleur is well placed to play a key role in the rise of Ulysse Nardin. Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer…