VIDEO: The top Jaquet Droz watches from Basel 2018 (hint, there’s a lot of Grande Seconde in the mix)
Just because Jaquet Droz is a relative newcomer to Australia doesn’t mean they don’t have history. The brand dates back to the mid-18th century, and, besides watches and clocks, is famous for their incredible automata. And while the incredibly complex, high-end art/engineering pieces are still important for the brand, we thought we’d keep it real and focus on their slightly more down-to-earth offerings from Baselworld 2018, offerings that focused heavily on their signature Grande Seconde model, with its oversized seconds subdial. And like any good signature model, the Grande Seconde is versatile. It excels at traditional — as evidenced by the black enamel moonphase model, and the yellow gold and grand feu Tribute — but can pivot nicely to contemporary, with the addition of a ceramic case or skeletonised treatment. Excellent stuff from a niche brand, with a strong and sophisticated identity.
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Oh what a difference a strap makes. Last year, when Longines chose to pair their mighty Legend Diver — a watch the Vice President calls the most successful heritage model ever — with a Milanese loop bracelet, they succeeded in creating a third wave of interest in the model that made its way to the door of Time+Tide in Melbourne. The first wave was at its launch in 2007, auspiciously without date. The second wave was the date version that inevitably followed, and the third was the 2017 release with Milanese bracelet. With its heavy, supple bracelet in polished steel making the polished case shine even brighter, we looked at the watch with completely fresh eyes. Now, like eager surfers, we await even more sets of surprising and surging waves from the winged hourglass brand, which has chosen this versatile all-rounder as the shape of many new things to come. 
There’s more to a watch than how it feels and looks on the wrist. Some watches carry a weight greater than what you can measure in grams — they also bear the weight of decades of heritage and sociocultural significance. The Monaco — a true icon of the industry — is one such watch. It’s even more true when that Monaco has a Gulf dial. Those stripes, on that dial, add up to a double hit of Steve McQueen iconography. The watch he wore in Le Mans, emblazoned with the colours of the car he drove, all in one convenient 39mm package. And while this piece of history gives you a good idea as to who this watch is pitched at, it doesn’t quite capture just how much fun it is on the wrist. The Monaco is fun in and of itself, but the popping strap and striped dial take it to the next level, as you can see. TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf 2018 Special Edition Australian pricing and availability TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf 2018 Special Edition, steel on calf, $7650
Twenty-five years is a milestone worth celebrating, so Omega have pulled out all the stops with their latest upgrade of the Seamaster Professional 300M, AKA the Seamaster Professional, AKA the SMP. The SMP is a fairly iconic watch, largely down to its prominent placement on the wrist of Bond (James Bond). Omega have made a host of small but sweeping cosmetic changes, from the bezel, to the dial (hello wave pattern), to the bracelet (thinner) and the case (slightly larger). However, the real change is on the inside: it’s now powered by the Master Chronometer Calibre 8800, which, in another SMP first, is visible through a clear caseback. It’s also available in a range of flavours. Steel, two-tone, bracelet, rubber — you choose. And the best thing, the price. Steel only on rubber comes in at $6375, on bracelet $6525. 
When it comes to GMTs, you’d be hard pressed to find one as user friendly and as easily operable as the Hublot Unico GMT. As part of our mini-series, exploring some unique Hublot takes on complications, we asked the Head of the High Complication department Emmanuel Missillier how it works? The answer involves some intricate wiring, replacing one chronograph module with a GMT plate and a day / night indicator that makes this one of the most legible and simple-to-read examples of the complication on the market.
When you name something ‘Unico’, it’s only fair that people ask what is unique about it. At least this was my logic when confronted with an uncased Hublot Unico movement at the manufacture, on a visit that took place after SIHH in January this year. The head of Hublot’s High Complication Department, Emmanuel Missillier, was happy to oblige in providing more detail about the movement, picking three of its defining characteristics. I went in with some basic knowledge. I knew that the Unico was Hublot’s first in-house movement, and also that it is a flyback chronograph (Emmanuel also demonstrates how a flyback chrono works if you’re not aware). Beyond that, I was interested to learn that the Unico’s strengths are in its power – both in terms of power reserve and also the way it preserves power with different component materials. That’s all I’ll give away in the introduction, watch the video for more.
While I know Bulgari released a full suite of new models at Baselworld 2018 — including a nice new Lucea and variants on the Octo Roma — really, it was all about their geometric critical hit, the Octo. And while we didn’t exactly see the Octo come in new shapes and sizes (it’s still very square), we did see it come in a genuinely interesting new mix of case finishes and complications. Take, for example, the new carbon minute repeater, giving the chiming champion a completely new feel. And then there’s their latest record-breaker, the Octo Tourbillon Automatic, a technical tour de force that looks good to boot. But, for me, the real star is the two new case variations on the Octo Finissimo Automatic, in rhodium-coated steel and pink gold. I’m especially taken by the pink gold, which has never looked so low-key. In the comments on one of our videos, someone asked the question (and I’m paraphrasing here): “How is it that a jewellery house is making such excellent watches?” My answer is that they’re making cohesive, distinctive, zeitgeist-y and genuinely good timepieces precisely because they’re a jewellery house. They’re not so bound by the covenants and conventions of the…
There’s something I feel you should know about our personal ‘top 10’ videos: Andrew and I don’t share what’s on our lists with each other. Sure, we drop broad hints, but this video is genuinely the first time Andrew’s hearing my list in full. The surprise, and the guesses, are real. And even though it’s a little surprising that Andrew didn’t guess my choices — I mean, I went to absolutely zero effort to hide my unashamed love for that Rolex Daytona, for example — the real surprise was that we had only one duplicate watch in the whole 10. You know what else is real about this video? The extreme fatigue that comes on the last day of Baselworld. We filmed this just prior to our final day of appointments, and I was coming off a week of roughly four hours a night sleep, so things started getting a little silly. And aside from the general watch-induced mania (particular apologies to Nomos), there’s a few symptoms of this fatigue, namely Marcus and my shared obsession with 1982’s finest film, and one of the greatest soundtracks of all time. Not sure what I’m on about (not that I blame you)? Well, here’s a hint:…
Omega is a real powerhouse brand, with a product catalogue that’s both broad and deep, and their Basel 2018 catalogue is no exception. This year they showed a fairly diverse mix of watches, from the elegant ladies Trésor, to a range of Olympic commemorative editions and a Speedy or two. The main focus, though, is the Seamaster. There was a lovely duo of heritage-inspired models, but really, the critical and commercial heart of their lineup is the revamped Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, better known as the SMP. It’s a model that found renown on the wrist of Brosnan’s Bond, and won hearts and minds thanks to its distinctive look and rock-solid build quality. This 2018 version boasts a host of small, but significant, changes. There’s a size and movement upgrade (including the first ever clear caseback for the model), ceramic bezels and dials, as well as the return of the classic wave pattern. All this makes the SMP an even more compelling proposition.
The story of Grand Seiko at Baselworld 2018 is really the story of two movements. The legendary quartz 9F, which turns 25 this year, and the high-end workhorse that is the 9S, which marks its 20th anniversary. Both calibres received special tribute models, which really showcase the movement — literally in the case of the SBGV238. Quartz movements typically don’t receive the sapphire case-back treatment, and I believe this is the first time the 9F ever has. And really, it’s quite amazing to look at, as is the rest of the watch, especially that intricate dial. The 9S tribute models also have typically stunning dials. We didn’t shoot it, but the platinum one is phenomenal, and quite subtle. The two steel versions are strong too, in brown and blue, with a radial mosaic-style pattern. And finally there’s a sporty-looking GMT to round out the family. All told, a calm, considered and confident collection from Grand Seiko.