Category: vintage

In-Depth – Omega and the PloProf Research Programme – Innovation in Professional Dive watches (incl. Pioneering use of 904L Steel for Watches)

By the early 1940s, Emile Gagnan and Jacques-Yves Cousteau’s Aqualung – the first commercially successful self-contained underwater breathing apparatus (a.k.a Scuba)-  had become a worldwide phenomenon. Along with the growing popularity of recreational diving, the needs of military and professional divers underscored the paramount importance of reliable sub-aquatic instruments. Developed in 1953, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is often regarded as the archetype of the dive watch: a robust, highly legible watch, water-resistant to great depths (91 meters, in this instance) and equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel to time dives.

6 years ago

Video – The Seamaster Chronicles – Part 1, The History of the Omega Seamaster

Last year, we introduced one of our largest projects ever, the Speedmaster Chronicles. 5 videos with 5 men, including James Ragan (the man who turned the Speedmaster into the Moonwatch), Omega’s CEO, a well-known auctioneer, Mr. Speedy Tuesday and an anonymous collector, who shed their light on one of the most iconic watches ever created, the Omega Speedmaster a.k.a. Moonwatch. Today we’re starting with another big video project, namely “The Seamaster Chronicles” – and you probably guessed it… we will have an in-depth look at Omega’s diving icon, the Seamaster.

6 years ago

In-Depth – Chronographe Suisse – The Story Behind a Mysterious but Productive Chronograph Brand and Supplier

It’s not uncommon for watch brands to buy cases, movements, crystals, straps, etc. to assemble at their base location, and then stamp their name on the dial and call it their own. Not all companies can build from scratch and even major luxury brands use ETA movements and various outsourced components. Back in the 1940’s, a brand known as Chronographe Suisse (Swiss Chronograph) provided inexpensive “generic” chronograph watches and parts for brands to adopt and add their name. Even local jewellers branded these watches as their own. They sold watches with in-house “Chronographe Suisse” branding as well, adding some confusion into the mix. Popular in the European market as (relatively) cheap Swiss watches for tourists, Chronographe Suisse became a significant revenue source for small, often forgettable brands and many of these watches are collectables today. At its peak, over 500 workshops were producing watches from Chronographe Suisse supplies. This successful business model thrived from the 1940’s to the 1970’s, before the quartz revolution wreaked havoc on the industry overall. Let’s take a closer look at this somewhat forgotten chapter of twentieth-century watch history.

6 years ago

Found – A Unique IWC Ingenieur 666A (and the story of how it came to life)

With the vintage market and auctions in full hype-mode these days, we often hear the words “unique” or “never-seen-before” to talk about a watch with one small detail to differentiate it from the rest of the crowd. However, we’re quite confident in saying that you’ve never seen what we’re about to show you: a truly unique, truly legit and truly interesting IWC Ingenieur 666A (the first generation of this model). And for once, we have all shreds of evidence that it was born this way, back in 1965, as a special order to IWC – and before you ask, no it isn’t for sale (or not yet at least).

6 years ago

Value Proposition – Meet Semper & Adhuc, A Series of New Watches with Yesterday’s Craftsmanship Inside

We’ve written quite a lot about microbrands lately, with brands like Gaia & Co. and Marnaut launching interesting new watches on Kickstarter. Most are unique and have a character of their own, but all share one thing in common – simple, generic automatic movements. SEMPER & ADHUC is taking a different approach by building new cases for vintage, restored movements from the 1930s to the 1960s. Similar to what Vortic Watch Co. started a couple of years ago (3D printing new cases for vintage pocket watch movements), SEMPER & ADHUC is combining modern techniques with the handcrafted tech of the past. It’s a novel idea and brings a history and soul to the watches that a new Miyota or ETA movement simply can’t match. Is this enough to raise their head above a very crowded market? Let’s take a closer look.

6 years ago

Hands-on – Speake-Marin London Chronograph – Rule Britannia and Valjoux 92!

Fitted with a refurbished Valjoux 92 Calibre from the 1960s, Speake-Marin’s London Chronograph pays tribute to the English soul of the brand and flaunts some dandy design tweaks on the dial. Originally released in 2016 in a hyper-limited edition of just 3 pieces, Speake-Marin revisits the London Chronograph in 2018 in another limited edition of 15 watches. A winning combination of classic watchmaking elements, quirky design choices and a vintage movement make the London Chronograph a very fetching and practically unique model.

6 years ago

Hands-on – Graham’s Chronofighter Vintage 2018 Collection Flies New Colours

Graham has forged a powerful brand image around its Chronofighter, a watch collection designed to evoke the mood of vintage aviator watches. Revisited time and time again since its launch in 2001, the Chronofighter amplifies its vintage aura with a new squadron of watches. Using colours that are indelibly associated with military aircraft, the trilogy of Chronofighter Vintage watches are a nostalgic flight back in time to the 1940s.

7 years ago

Hands-on – Oris Divers Sixty-Five Steel and Bronze (40mm and 36mm)

Oris expands its highly successful retro Divers Sixty-Five family with the incorporation of two models with a bronze ring hugging the rotating bezel. Exuding strong vintage appeal with the two-tone black and warm golden and bronze touches, it is patently clear that Oris has been listening to its customers and has tapped directly into the trend for smaller unisex case sizes (36mm) and the ongoing fascination with bronze. Presented in 40mm and 36mm diameters, the new Oris Divers Sixty-Five models won’t sink you financially and retail for under CHF 2,000 for the models on a leather or NATO strap.

7 years ago

Auction – 10 More Highlights from the 97th Dr Crott Auction on May 12

Yesterday, in our first selection of highlights of the upcoming 97th Dr. Crott auction of this Saturday, May 12, we focused on very nice horological highlights, the hidden gems, and not so much on the usual suspects. Today we’ll focus on those! Here’s our selection of the highlights, stunning pieces that will certainly attract a lot of attention at the auction that will be held in Frankfurt, Germany. And know that you can also bid online!

7 years ago

Auction – 10 Highlights of the Upcoming 97th Dr Crott Auction

We only cover watch auctions occasionally, and, as editor-in-chief, I’m well aware of this void in our coverage of the world of watches. So, while we’re looking for someone to cover auctions and vintage timepieces for MONOCHROME (yes, we’re hiring), I’m taking a look at the upcoming 97th Dr Crott Auction. Flipping through the pages of the Dr Crott auction catalogue always put a huge smile on my face; so many horological goodies, so many beautiful, rare, impressive and desirable pieces. Today I’m sharing ten highlights of the upcoming auction, and tomorrow some more…

7 years ago