VIDEO: A closer look at the 2020 Cartier collection

2020 Cartier collectionThere are hundreds of emotions that flood through you when looking at a Cartier watch. Authentic historical contributions to aviation timekeeping, coupled with more than 170 years in the jewellery industry, shrouds the French name in an air of romance, adventure and audacious style. With few models is this truer than the Santos-Dumont, originally designed in 1904 for the brave pilot of the same name, and revived in 2019 in an ultra-thin case echoing the century-old designs more accurately than previous Santos models. Although the SIHH release was an undisputed hit, perhaps the only drawback was the quartz movement, lacking that bite of heritage which can only be attained from knowing a complex series of gears and levers are working away on your wrist. Cartier answered prayers in 2020’s Watches & Wonders online edition when they announced an XL hand-winding model, plus four extremely attractive special editions. The first three aren’t especially mould-breaking, but that doesn’t make them any less stunning. Le Brésil pays homage to the aviator’s first flying balloon, deceptively simple with its monochromatic colour scheme comprised of a platinum case and grey strap — the only pop of colour being the red ruby cabochon crown. La Baladeuse is especially…

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5 years ago

Why Rolex's problem with American Psycho goes deeper than a chainsaw-wielding maniac

American psycho RolexPatrick Bateman is an unlikely pop cultural icon. Yet that’s exactly what the anti-hero of American Psycho has become. Almost 30 years since Bret Easton Ellis’ book was published, and 20 since the movie’s release, Bateman’s Armani-clad mass murderer continues to resonate in the contemporary psyche. Type his name into Google and you’ll find a cosmetic brand named after him (Bateman Skincare), a LinkedIn post offering “American Psycho’s Top 10 Personal Branding Tips” and various first-person articles of the “I Followed Patrick Bateman’s Psychotic Skincare Routine For a Week” variety. Fascination with the film, in particular, has reached seriously nerdy levels. (FYI the “whoosh” sounds made when the characters brandish their business cards in the famous scene was made by slowing down the sound of a sword being drawn from its sheath.) Anyone who’s read the book — still banned in the Australian state of Queensland — may find this fan-boy veneration slightly awkward. The film presented a sanitised version of Bateman as a fairly standard chainsaw-wielding maniac. But the book is essentially torture porn in designer threads. Unfolding with a stylised tone of glazed indifference, the novel reveals Bateman as a serial killer, necrophile and cannibal who occasionally snacks on his…

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5 years ago

The Collector’s Series – Frank and his Vintage Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ 5402ST

Today, we’ll get straight to the point and speak frankly and honestly. Frank, Founder and Managing Director of MONOCHROME, whom I’ve known for more than seven years now, is probably one of the most upfront and straightforward people I’ve ever met: Frank is a  man who says what he thinks. And today we’ll talk about one of his most beloved watches, one that he’s owned for years and that I’ve always wanted to feature in our ‘Collector’s Series’, his handsome Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ 5402ST. And because this watch is such an icon, it doesn’t really need an introduction anymore. Instead, we’ll be looking at what really matters, the collecting side of things, the market, the fuzz around the watch…

5 years ago

Interview – Jean-Marc Pontroué on Panerai’s Innovations, New Materials, COVID-19, Environment and… Experiences!

Jean-Marc Pontroue became CEO of Panerai in 2016, bringing new ideas, energy and a more contemporary approach to the brand. Although changes within the company were inevitable, the core values and instantly recognizable aesthetic remain intact. During the digital Watches & Wonders week, I talked with Jean-Marc about Panerai’s plans and challenges in 2020 during this unprecedented Corona Virus pandemic. New models will launch as planned, while others will wait until next year as the company adapts to global boutique closures, cancelled events and a big shift to a single, major fair in Geneva. With a focus on the environment, partnerships and long-term ambassadors like Mike Horn, Panerai is poised to emerge from the crisis stronger than ever with exciting new projects and innovations in the works.

5 years ago

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Revolution and The Rake are kicking Covid's arse, the Seiko modding craze and *eggplant emoji *

It’s been another big week of Covid-19 era life here at Time+Tide, with Zoom calls with the Girard-Perregaux HQ (up to 90 people joined in at its peak) to join in on, a live chat with Wei Koh of Revolution and the CEO of DOXA watches to discuss our involvement in the Covid-19 Solidarity Auction and what seems now like an endless schedule of video conferences, including our own team meetings. If this is the new normal, then I guess we’re getting used to it. Though, with a rotating schedule of the team visiting the office, with staff rarely overlapping in greater numbers than two, the teamwork making the dream work in person – as well as table tennis – is sorely missed! On a team note, I’d like to give a big shout out to our Deputy Editor Nick Kenyon, who you might know from his spectacular entrances to our Home Delivery Watch Fair videos. Nick just clicked over his first year at Time+Tide – congratulations Nick! Some highlights from his first year would have to be his coverage from his first watch fair, Dubai Watch Week, as well as joining me for a week in Sydney when we…

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5 years ago

Introducing – The New Bell & Ross BR 05 Steel & Gold and Skeleton Blue

A square case, a round dial, and one screw in each of the four corners… Fifteen years ago, Paris-based brand Bell & Ross introduced a watch that would become a signature design, the BR 01. In 2019, the challenge was to stay true to the brand’s roots but also to extend the concept to casual/urban […]

5 years ago

Apples to Apples: Longines HydroConquest Vs. Oris Aquis, specs, pricing and value propositions compared

We want to start this post with a shoutout to some YouTube commenters by the name of Nicolas, Hani and Lee. This trio recently commented on the Longines HydroConquest 41mm in Khaki Green video and each echoed the same sentiments, which to paraphrase, are: “We are in doubt between this Longines and an Oris Aquis.” We all took note. It reminded us of a segment we did on YouTube some time ago called Apples to Apples. The idea here was that we pick watches that are likely be in competitive sets and – after a flip of the coin to determine who argues for who – then argue a case for each watch. We’ll dispense with some of those theatrics for this static site post version of the concept – but we’ll keep the core idea. That two watches, both alike in important ways, get compared directly to one another. So, without further ado, let’s pitch two well-priced welterweights against each other pound for pound.   Vital Stats Longines HydroConquest in Khaki Green Ref.L3.781.4.06.9   Case: 316L Stainless Steel 41mm x 12mm 300 metres of water resistance Screw-down crown Flat sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating Lug width 21mm Solid…

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5 years ago