Watch Dandy

Editor’s note: This week, we have something a little different for Micro Mondays. Instead of an interview, or review, it’s an open letter from Sydney-based Australian watchmaker, Nicholas Hacko. It was written for the second edition of NOW Magazine. We featured Nicholas Hacko by way of his kind offer to host a photo shoot starring Aldis Hodge at his watch manufacture in Sydney. The large feature was complemented with an open letter and a single page ad. But, reading this letter again now, it’s too good not to share. These are words of fire, that demonstrate the levels of drive – not to mention the levels of self-belief – you need to possess to have any kind of chance of showing “the Swiss that [we’re] capable of creating a wristwatch that is as good, if not better than the very best they have to offer.” And confidence underscores Nicholas Hacko’s offer, in every possible sense. Including, in quite extraordinary style, the offer and repair of watches within half a century of the purchase date. That’s just plain epic. So, yes, it is an ad of sorts – the actual advertisement that accompanied this letter is at the bottom of the post. But it’s one that…

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A. Lange & Söhne don’t always do things by the book. The year is 2019. The demand for steel luxury sports watches is at an all-time high. And along comes the brand’s brand new Odysseus model. The polarising design (with naysayers focusing on the thicc steel bracelet as a flaw) took the established trope of water resistant, blue-dialled steel watches with an integrated bracelet. But in typically Lange fashion, it added nigh-on incomparable levels of engineering. The push buttons alone, hidden inside the gently sloping crown guard and used to advance the sophisticated day and date wheels, mark out the Odysseus technical territory. At 2020’s online edition of the Watches & Wonders trade show, the Glashütte giants unveiled a new version of the Odysseus. sporting a sleek grey dial and rubber or leather strap. However, in a sleight of hand that Audemars Piguet fans may find familiar, the biggest shock was that the case wasn’t steel, but 18k white gold. First things first. This edition is miles ahead of the steel Odysseus visually. Not that the older model is subpar by any stretch, but the stippled centre dial section, surrounded by concentric circles, tends to fall a bit flat when…

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In a recent opinion piece, I extolled one of the central virtues of a modern luxury watch as being its viability for multi-generational use. But that is to presume the owner is going to be diligent with maintaining it. So, what’s the worst thing that can happen if you don’t service your watch?  I asked some top-tier watchmakers that question and more around the subject of servicing. Colin de Tonnac is a French watchmaker who previously worked for Patek Philippe. He launched his own brand, Semper & Adhuc, in 2016. Eric Greenberg is a US-based watchmaker. He has extended his rather incredible accomplishments in the technology sector to watchmaking. On his Instagram account, he shares details about the unrivalled care he takes in servicing client’s timepieces (as well as the mistakes he uncovers from prior service efforts!). Aren’t modern watches built to run perfectly well beyond their recommended service intervals? CDT: Yes, a mechanical watch can in some cases work perfectly for 30 years without maintenance. However, it should be noted that these movements accumulate years and years of wear and tear and when a breakdown occurs, it will be all the more difficult to make a repair without changing…

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Credit where credit is due. There may well be global turmoil the likes of which we’ve never seen before, but IWC has taken all in their stride and released a brace of new watches in 2020 that are set to stun. Though quietly, and with the kind of confidence that doesn’t require theatrics. It is, overall, a formidable display of power. And, in a fashion similar to what we’ve seen in previous years, the Schaffhausen outfit has singled out an entire model range for a complete makeover – 2020 is all about the Portugieser. Last year it was the watchmaker’s Pilot collection that got the special treatment. This year, it’s the brand’s iconic Portugieser collection – that CEO Chris Grainger-Herr refers to as the “heart” of IWC – that’s getting a complete refresh, including some brand-new models. There’s quite a bit to get through with this range review, so if you’re a fan of the International Watch Company, put the kettle on and put your feet up and enjoy. IWC Portugieser Chronograph   Undoubtedly the collection’s most popular model, the Portugieser Chronograph is just one of those watches that has stood the test of time – IWC got the formula…

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