5 things you never knew about Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak
If you regard yourself as a fan of luxury watchmaking, it’s probably fair enough to assume that you have heard of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. For those of you that haven’t, it is, quite simply, an icon. It is the epitome of luxury steel watches, and there’s a good reason for that (read on to find out). Aside from being designed in a single day by the endlessly inventive mind of Gérald Genta, the Royal Oak’s popularity has endured. And as one might expect for a model so steeped in history, a few myths and legends have sprung up since its release. Here are a few interesting facts that may confirm or debunk those swirling rumours that might have reached your ears. The octagonal bezel was inspired by a diver’s helmet More often than not, it is said that the instantly recognisable bezel of the Royal Oak was inspired by a ship’s porthole. While this does seem a plausible explanation, it is false. The bezel, with its eight polished bolts, is actually inspired by a diver’s helmet – the kind you’d expect to see a modern-day commercial diver wearing (not the big, grilled, copper-type you associate with Jules Verne).…
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There are several reasons why some motoring enthusiasts will always gravitate to an automobile with a manually operated transmission: more involvement, a greater sense of connection, more autonomy and control — the list goes on. And it’s the same story with manually winding watches. Sure, an automatic movement is easier and more convenient, but there’s a palpable old-school charm about a watch that needs to be wound by hand. In fact, for some it’s a ritual that is paramount to the enjoyment of owning a timepiece. With that in mind, we thought we’d share with you three of our favourite manually wound watches released in 2019: GRAND SEIKO SBGK005 The Grand Seiko Elegance Collection got a real boost earlier this year when reference SBGK005 debuted as part of a range promoting artisanal dial finishes. This blue dial is finished with the Mt Iwate pattern and coated with Urushi lacquer. The dial markings are applied via the ancient technique of Maki-e (gold and silver powder layered atop the lacquer). The Zaratsu method – developed to accentuate the aesthetic appearance of curved surfaces – is used to polish the case. Ref No: SBGK005 / Case size: 39mm / Case material: Steel / Movement: 9S63…
I write on Christmas morning, in Melbourne, Australia from the kitchen table of my parents’ house. The children are watching the Stick Man Christmas Special on TV. The air outside is hazy and thick with bushfire smoke, slowly filtering down from the state above Victoria, New South Wales. There are currently 343 bushfires burning out of control across the country – 3000 homes have been lost, and many lives in a summer bushfire season that shapes as the worst on record. Three days ago, the average temperature across the entire country was 42 degrees. I know many of y’all envy our great Aussie climate. Trust me, you don’t this December. I give this broader worldly context, because it’s an odd point of view to write about the year just gone in watches. It’s more difficult than any other year in my life when writing a yearly wrap to ‘get in the zone’. To reinhabit the watch world bubble we live in. But the smoke being so thick gives particular clarity to the reflections. It’s harder to drink our refreshing watch industry Kool-Aid today because our throats are parched from the ash and cinders. So here we go. For me, the…
For many years now, watchmakers on all levels have tried to separate themselves from the pack by experimenting with different watch case materials. Nowadays, we’re used to seeing some highly impressive materials make their way onto our wrists. Ceramics, plastics and carbons are all enjoying their day in the sun, but how do the older, more traditional metals stack up against one another? Here’s a quick guide to the most popular metal cases on the market today. Stainless steel Stainless steel is a common, highly resistant, easy-to-machine alloy that comes in a few types. The most common (by far) is 316L stainless steel. This is hypoallergenic, surgical grade steel that is favoured by many manufacturers for its ease of use and affordability. Although 904L steel (the kind used by Rolex) has the potential to be more resistant to corrosion and to hold a high polish better, the margin for error in the performance of these two types of steel actually overlaps, so in practical terms, while 904L is generally regarded as superior, the difference is minimal (and could theoretically be non-existent). Bronze Bronze is far from a traditional material for watch cases but is currently very much in vogue.…
There are myriad impressive things about Seiko’s Presage collection. But if we had to single out one overriding thing that the Japanese watchmaker’s dress watches do better than almost anyone else, rather predictably, it would be their dials. Pound for pound, the Presage dress watches and their rapturous range of dials represent amazing value for money. It’s not just the design that marks these dials out as instant winners either, it’s the finishing, intricacy and attention to detail. These two new examples, SRPD36J1 and SSA392J1, are no exception. The lustrous chocolate brown dials these watches possess are sumptuous, and as Nick Kenyon pointed out, they almost mimic that of a horse’s radiant flank. Complemented by gold coloured hour indices and Seiko’s signature dauphine handset, these Presages are downright handsome, especially when you take in to account the stainless steel cases with gold coloured finishing. The Seiko Presage SRPD36J1 and SSA392J1 prices and availability: The Seiko Presage SRPD36J1 has a recommended retail of $995 AUD. The Seiko Presage SSA392J1 has a recommended retail of $1250AUD. Both of these watches are currently available in boutiques across Australia. Made in partnership with Seiko. However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own…
Kanye West is many things: hip-hop superstar, fashion designer, maverick genius, not to mention Kim Kardashian’s other half. What he is not often recognised as is a beacon of sound common sense. It turns out there’s a very good reason for this. Yeezy’s public comments suggest a man who is not only a full-blown egomaniac (“By 50% I am more influential than Stanley Kubrick, Apostle Paul, Picasso…”) but also slightly deranged (“I would never want a book’s autograph. I am a proud non-reader of books.”) Oh dear. Nevertheless, there was a moment when the 42-year-old rapper uttered the most profound truth imaginable. It’s worth repeating not to aid your ceaseless quest for knowledge and wisdom but because, far more importantly, it could help rationalise your next watch buy. “The only luxury is time,” Kanye said in a rare lucid moment. “The time you spend with your family.” Hard to argue with that one. In the final analysis, spending time with the people you most love – whether friends or family – is something we should all prioritise a whole lot more of. Luxury splurges from bespoke suits to fine wine are all very well. But let’s face it: on your death-bed you’re…
One of the biggest trends for timepieces of the last decade has been oversized case dimensions that stretch well into the 45mm plus category. And while the inclination for producing gargantuan wristwatches is starting to cool as tastes in the horological community change, this year has still spawned some absolute doozies for those that like a wristwatch that can be seen from the next postcode. Here are our three favourite biggest watches of 2019: PANERAI SUBMERSIBLE MARINA MILITARE CARBOTECH While Panerai watches have been long-held favourites of the diving community for their no-nonsense approach to robustness and legibility, the enormous housings in which the brand’s attractive calibres reside provide the perfect playground for mad material scientists to experiment. The relative simplicity of Panerai’s signature look makes it ripe for reimagining. The Carbotech model is fascinating to look at, but even more interesting to wear given its hefty proportions, but surprising lightness. Ref No: PAM00979 / Case size: 47mm / Case material: Carbotech / Movement: P.9010 / Price: $27,200 FRANCK MULLER SKAFANDER CHRONOGRAPH 2019 The Skafander, Romanian for diving suit, is Franck Muller’s interpretation of a dive watch, and it bears all of the brand’s hallmarks: a hefty, modular case with…