Review – The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked Ceramic

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and its full ceramic Perpetual Calendar versions – full black and now white too – have been some of the most sought-after modern watches for some years now. You understand why when you handle these watches… The full ceramic case and bracelet are nothing but superbly executed. To add to […]

6 years ago

Hands-on – Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpagraphe Noir

Parmigiani Fleurier is traditionally quite conservative when it comes to the materials of its designs and its watch cases. The brand usually sticks to platinum, gold or steel to craft its watches. Yet, earlier this year, the brand introduced its Kalpagraphe in a matte titanium version, offering a sleek monochromatic look. This chronograph watch is now presented in a black ADLC-steel limited edition, the Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpagraphe Noir. This new version is launched together with the Kalpagraphe Blanc, a pink gold feminine model with a subtle white sapphire dial.

6 years ago

Hands-on – Meet Alpine Eagle, Chopard’s Take On The Luxury Sports Watch

The luxury sports watch is one of the most dynamic categories in the watch industry. In 1972, with the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet and Gerald Genta defined the genre: a sporty but clearly expensively-crafted steel watch with an integrated bracelet and shaped case. Most high-end brands gave their take on the category. Patek Philippe with […]

6 years ago

Vacheron Constantin's Creative Director Christian Selmoni on harmonious watch design

Editor’s note: This interview is an old one, from SIHH 2015, and the Harmony is a watch that isn’t a massive focus for Vacheron Constantin right now, but the brand’s Creative Director, Mr Christian Selmoni, is one of the most articulate and interesting creative minds in the watch business, and definitely worth a read, especially as much of this speaks to the overall qualities of Vacheron Constantin’s approach to design and watchmaking.   T+T: I understand that along with Vacheron Constantin’s 260th birthday you’re celebrating your own milestone – 25 years with Vacheron Constantin – congratulations! What was it like back then? CS: I come from a watchmaking family. When I graduated in the late ’70s none of us chose to go into watchmaking because we all thought it would be dead in a few years. That changed a decade later. A friend called and asked if I was interested in a watchmaking job. I thought, ‘Why not?’ I joined Vacheron Constantin on the 1st of February in 1990, and we were 68 people. Now we are around 1300. So I think that explains how difficult the situation was back then. T+T: It must have been a difficult time to…

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6 years ago

INTRODUCING: The Aquadive Poseidon – paying tribute to the golden age of diving

Diving is a pursuit — more than most — that relies on gear. Which is why it’s an area full of storied suppliers that are as much a part of pioneering and evolving diving as the divers themselves. Of course, watch brands fall into this matrix — but they’re a relatively small part of the picture. Suits, breathing apparatus and all the other paraphernalia are equally as important. Which is why this watch, the Aquadive Poseidon GMT, is such a nice celebration of this heritage.  Aquadive, in case you’re not familiar, is one of those old names in dive watches. Their heyday was in the ’60s and ’70s, that’s making a bit of a splash now, thanks to their revival by the Synchron Group. And Poseidon, when he’s not busy being king under the waves, is a diving gear company dating back to 1958, which lists an innovative fully automatic rebreather, the MkVI, in its list of accomplishments. The brand’s bright yellow logo stands out on the dial. You might recognise Poseidon from their collab with Doxa last year. And while this watch can’t help you in the breathing department, it can certainly handle the timekeeping side of the equation.  Steel,…

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6 years ago

"Even more style than the titanium" – the black ceramic Bulgari Octo Finissimo explained by its designer

There is no designer in the watch game like Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. He is sketching, pardon the millennial turn of phrase here, literally all of the time. When he’s being interviewed. When he’s in a room by himself waiting to be interviewed (I disturbed him in the act as I was early). And, you suspect, when he’s having his breakfast at the very break of day. “Every day of my life I am drawing.” That’s all well and good, and almost certainly well known by now. But this is not the point of this story. There is another angle on the man that intrigues me, speaking personally. His style. His individuality. So, when he told me in a recent interview that he has been wearing a watch for more than six months straight, I had to better understand why? And which watch was it? Through the process, I learned that evolving the Finissimo from grey to black, and from titanium to ceramic was far more complex a process than it might appear. I was with Bulgari in Shanghai for the launch of more Serpenti Seduttori, a drop-shaped watch case with an extraordinary ‘snake scaled’ bracelet. It’s typical Bulgari watchmaking for…

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6 years ago

INTRODUCING: The Chopard Alpine Eagle, a new contender in luxury steel sports

Chopard Alpine EagleThe Chopard Alpine Eagle is a watch that has roots in the 1980s when their St. Moritz model was released. It was during a period when the stainless steel luxury sports watch boom was in full swing. Case in point, between 1980 and 1995, the St. Moritz model alone sold 50,000 pieces. Now, the St. Moritz has been reimagined with a contemporary flavour in terms of its design, as well as a number of technical developments that make the Chopard Alpine Eagle a genuine luxury wristwatch and reflect Chopard’s endeavour to “treat steel as if it were gold”. Also, the dial. We have had this bird in the hand the last few weeks, and we can confirm it really is something. More to come. As a brief  history lesson on the origins of the Alpine Eagle, in 1980 the St. Moritz was released by Chopard after being envisioned by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the son of the owner of the brand. It was the first watch that Karl-Friedrich Scheufele had ever designed, at the young age of 22, as well as the first sports watch and the first steel watch that Chopard had produced. Chopard have taken these points as inspiration for…

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6 years ago