Independent Watchmaking – Spotlight On Young Talents – Théo Auffret and his “Tourbillon in Paris” Subscription Watch
It is always a pleasure to present and showcase the work of young watchmakers and emerging talents. Today we are taking a look at Théo Auffret, part of the French independent watchmaking “nouvelle vague”. Theo Auffret, born in 1995, started his training as restorative watchmaker in parallel with his baccalaureate. Unlike the vast majority of fellow graduates, after having passed the exam, instead of studying a few years on university benches, Theo Auffret undertook the vocational pathway to become a watchmaker… And the result, named “Tourbillon in Paris”, is an impressive watch.
Editor’s note: Panerai has been on a real Submersible kick this year, along with the lighter Due models — but it’s hard to go past the watch that started it all. And this watch, the Panerai Luminor Base Logo 3 Days (PAM00775), really demonstrates why, as Sandra explains … Not a Radiomir to be seen this year at SIHH; lots of new Luminor Due variations (including a very good 38mm). However, with Angelo Bonati retiring in April from the brand he built from almost-zero to quite the hero, the halo piece has to be that most “Panerai” of all Panerais – the Luminor. Full-fat version, not the slimmed-down Due. A lot of the new PAM00775 is quintessential Luminor and quite a lot is not. There’s the chunky 44mm brushed steel case – as hefty on the wrist as a tool watch should be; a design so strong and confident that the crown guard alone has made Luminor a modern icon. Engraving on the closed caseback includes 100m – reference to the water-resistance. There’s the classic numerals font – the “closed 6 and 9” version – and the simple white printed dial, devoid of all decoration except the OP logo (in blue…
Last night, Time+Tide, along with IWC and Kennedy Watches & Jewellery, hosted an intimate gathering at IWC’s Melbourne boutique. And even though it’s officially ticked over to spring, the evening was brisk, so the horological faithful were truly faithful. But once ensconced in the warm, well-lit space, the cold melted away in the presence of some serious watchmaking heat, in the form of IWC’s 2019 Pilot’s collection, which has been a real standout this year. After some initial opening words from Brand Director Florian Gutsmiedl, Andrew and I did a quick flyover (if you’ll pardon the pun) of the history of IWC’s Pilot’s watch, this year’s highlights (more on that in a second), and the impressive expedition that is The Silver Spitfire’s Longest Flight — which sees a single Spitfire, made in 1943, and two pilots making a 44,000-odd kilometre trip of more than 100 legs, covering off more than 30 countries, all supported by IWC. Sadly, the Silver Spitfire isn’t making it to Australia, but we’ve got the next best thing — the watches. I had the pleasure of wearing the new, time-only Top Gun in Ceratanium, an eminently wearable bit of uncomplicated kit that I deeply regretted taking…
We don’t hear too much about Alpina, but the new Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph line is one of the more exciting vintage-style releases this year. This is why. Aside from having three equally appealing dial colour options, the monopusher movement and case geometry adopted by Alpina for this release is particularly noteworthy and makes for a refreshing change from the more common, round-case chronographs that dominate the scene. All three models boast wonderfully angular case profiles and lugs, the lines of which are reminiscent of a high-performance concept car (yes, I know we’re talking about a pilot’s chronograph, so what). However, the combination of polished and satin finishes helps temper some of the aggression of the case, bringing the design comfortably into classy-sporty territory. There’s a lot to like about the price, too. At 2895 euros (that’s over four-and-a-half grand in Aussie dollars at the time of writing), these new Alpinas are playing within a hyper-competitive price bracket. So aside from being very attractive, vintage-inspired pieces, what else is being offered? Encased within the stylish exterior is a new “in-house” AL-727 calibre: an automatic monopusher chronograph movement designed specifically for Alpina by La Joux-Perret. Owner by Citizen (which also…
Editor’s note: It’s no longer news that so-called smaller watches are back. And one of the leading lights in the movement is the Rado Captain Cook. The latest version, with a Champagne dial, is really something to celebrate. We had a hint of it a little while ago when Justin previewed the larger Captain Cook models, but now it’s official. The fan favourite Rado Captain Cook Automatic in 37mm is now offered in a limited edition Champagne (or to give its official, but less romantic, name — brown sunbrushed) dial. Dial aside, the details are unchanged: polished steel case, ceramic bezel insert in black, boxed sapphire crystal and automatic movement with 80 hours of juice. But this time around, there is a quite cool new addition, in the form of a handy leather travel case that includes space for the watch, and the two extra straps that come with it as standard. So, there’s the suede-like leather, a Milanese mesh with straight end pieces for that authentic diver vibe, as well as a stylish fabric strap. And, of course, a tool to change them. So, for a little watch, this Captain Cook sure packs a punch. It’s limited to 1962…
Unveiled at Baselworld earlier this year, the Chopard Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition celebrates the Swiss watch brand’s illustrious 31-year relationship with Italy’s most storied road rally. Inspired by not just the event itself, but the classic automobiles that compete in the famous rally, the 2019 Race Edition represents the passion that Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele shares for classic automobiles. The striking 44mm case is available in either steel or two-tone steel and rose gold, and is paired with a motorsport-inspired perforated tan leather band with Chopard’s signature rubber tyre tread pattern lining. Like most watches born out of the crucible of motorsport, the Race Edition’s bezel is treated to a very handy tachymeter, which no doubt would have been used thoroughly by those taking part in this year’s Mille Miglia. And it wouldn’t be a watch for the racetrack without a chronograph complication, with the Race Edition’s three sub-dials depicting running seconds, a 30-minute counter and a 12-hour counter. The main dial of the watch is finished in a striking and masculine galvanic grey colour with a mesmerising concentric snail pattern that really makes the contrasting black sub-dials of the aforementioned 30-minute counter and 12-hour counter pop. Powering the Race Edition is a…
