The Legend … the Longines Legend Diver, that is

Editor’s note: To celebrate the fact that the first Australian allocation of the Longines Legend Diver black goes on sale at 8am tomorrow, we’re looking back at OG Legend Diver. Black or steel, Milanese or sailcloth. No matter how you slice it, it’s a winner of a watch. Longines was making stellar heritage reissues well before it was cool. Case in point is the stylish ’60s-inspired Legend Diver, first released way back in 2007. And while it’s become de rigueur for most major brands to release one or two retro pieces a year, the Longines Legend Diver (LLD) pioneered the reissue genre, and still holds its own, thanks to a well-balanced trifecta of timeless good looks, clear vintage style and cracking value. First off, let’s tackle the style. The internal rotating bezel and twin crowns of the Legend draw their inspiration from a type of dive watch that was popular in the ’60s and ’70s called the Super Compressor. Most dive watches rely on thick cases, crystals and gaskets to create an impermeable wall to keep moisture out. The Super Compressor’s approach, however, was slightly different. Developed by case-maker E. Piquerez SA (EPSA), it relied on the external pressure of the water to…

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7 years ago

Mid-century modern – Tissot’s excellent Heritage Petite Seconde

Editor’s note: The Tissot Heritage Petite Seconde isn’t a new watch but, oh boy, it’s still a good-looking piece of wristwear. The simple case, numerals, and dial texture all add up to an entirely pleasing watch …  The story in a second: Tissot‘s latest heritage release is another hit. In these days of the never-ending vintage revival, it seems that every brand has to have a heritage collection, regardless of whether they have any actual heritage. That’s not a problem Tissot has to deal with, as the brand dates way back to 1853, a depth of history that’s reflected in the strength of their current heritage lineup. The latest member is this handsome fella, the Tissot Heritage Petite Seconde, a hand-winding hero based on a 1943 design, which is entirely suited to the modern day. The dial There’s an interesting story about this reissue, and it centres on one word on the dial. The Heritage Petite Seconde is a tribute to an antimagnetic watch from 1943. When the watch was originally shown at Baselworld this year it featured a line of text reading ‘antimagnetique’ under the wonderfully retro, sweeping Tissot logo. As you can see, that word is no longer…

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7 years ago

Hands-on – Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar and PanoReserve Now In Blue/Gold

The PanoMatic Lunar and PanoReserve are revisited in 2019 in gleaming red gold cases with the du jour dial colour.  This is not the first time the PanoMaticLunar and the PanoReserve feature blue dials, both models have flaunted blue dials in the past but were housed in stainless steel cases. The contrast with the red […]

7 years ago

This is why the Patek Philippe Nautilus is somehow the biggest hype model of 2019 *Trigger warning, graphic images*

Editor’s note: It’s been quite a week for the Patek Philippe Nautilus. First, it had to deal with the stinging news that our very own Sandra Lane no longer desires it. Which was quickly followed by claims that it had murdered collectors, in a manner of speaking. Sandra was not alone in her views. Time+Tide’s social channels lit up like a proverbial Christmas tree, with people complaining that there were no Patek models under their tree either. Despite having great relationships with ADs, despite offering to pay over retail, and so it went. And then, in a visual today that’s doing the rounds on Instagram, somebody has helpfully put together a chart of exactly how much more each model costs on the grey market vs RRP. It caused us in the office to ask the question: Is the Nauti really that nice? Is it really THAT good a steel sports watch? We eu-Google-ised it and came across this story written by David Chalmers from a whopping four years ago. The conclusion? Yep. It’s all that. Always has been. Likely always will. Enjoy this torturously attractive, and thorough, tribute to why the Patek Philippe IS the Ultimate Steel Sports Watch.        In the rarefied air of the high-end sports…

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7 years ago

Introducing – Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X Magma

A fully openworked movement, shaped like an X, housed in a sporty, coloured and textured carbon fibre case nicknamed “magma”… Yes, Ulysse Nardin is not walking down the classic side of the street here. Let’s be honest, the brand’s latest creation is bold and extreme,  but it’s also pretty cool. Let’s look at the new […]

7 years ago

A fashionable watch with a watchmaking heart – the Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone

“In terms of haute horlogerie complications we could do anything we like at Louis Vuitton – and we certainly have the means to do so. But that’s not our approach. What we do is deeply rooted in classical horology, but every piece needs to have an original twist that has real meaning for the Maison.” So says Michel Navas who, together with Enrico Barbasini, is the technical brains behind Louis Vuitton watchmaking. The Escale Time Zone perfectly illustrates this. Introduced in 2015 (with a version in tones of blue and grey last year), it looks unlike any travel time watch that preceded it. Or, more precisely, that preceded Louis Vuitton’s Escale Worldtime, released a year earlier. Time Zone is, by the way, almost a misnomer: the term usually means a second (or in rare cases third) time zone display – a GMT in other words. But this is a true world time watch. Clearly, though, it needed a different name to distinguish it from its big brother. The technical underpinnings are entirely classical – it’s essentially the same as the complication invented in 1931 by Louis Cottier (and improved by him in 1953), which made it possible to view the…

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7 years ago

5 things you need to know about Bremont that explain why they have come so far so fast

I distinctly remember the first time my interest was piqued in Bremont. Until then, I’d seen the brand around, but not been attracted to what appeared to be pretty plum conservative designs. I’d noticed the watch in Kingsman: The Secret Service and thought it was a clever, jolly appropriate spot for such a British brand, but again I hadn’t particularly warmed to the look of it – and without the ability to blow up enemies with it in real life, had no pressing urge to learn more. But then, in a meeting with an Australian distributor, a conversation took a twist. He had a swollen black eye. “What happened to your face, Leon, are you ok?” I asked. Leon launched into a story about standing on a stool to do something in his back room. About falling and landing on a tiled floor. “But the real miracle,” he said, “is that I actually landed on my wrist first and this is all that happened to my watch!” He proffered his wrist. On it was a Martin-Baker III on bracelet, and I inspected it closely – some marks on the bezel, a mini-bear claw swipe of scratches on the bracelet, but very…

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7 years ago