VIDEO: Colour, controversy and a streamlined case – Felix’s top Basel 2019 watches under $10,000
Baselworld 2019 was a fairly subdued affair, but that didn’t stop me from ferreting out three (very very different) pieces that reminded me what my love of watches was all about. Tudor Black Bay P01 Yup, I know. All y’all were very much not into this piece. And you know what, on paper (or Instagram, as the case might be), I was with you. But on the wrist it’s a very different picture, and I’d suggest holding judgement until you see this Tudor IRL. And to be honest, it’s more interesting than another suite of ‘regular’ BB dial variations. Zenith Defy Classic 41 in white ceramic Sure, it *just* sneaks over the price point, but it’s so nice I just had to include it. Now, believe it or not, I’m not typically a full white ceramic kind of guy, but for this Zenith, with its matt case and intricate details, I’d make an exception. Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGK005G Grand Seiko marks the 20th anniversary of the special Spring Drive in style, with a brand new, manually wound version that features not only a banging dial, but also a slimmer, more streamlined case.
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I’ll be frank: even using the word “unique” in this feature – let alone in its title – is dangerous territory. In this era of overblown, overhyped, and over-exaggerated positioning by brands and their marketing machines filled with a youthful and often naive “we are the next big thing!” mentality, words like unique are thrown around with impunity pretty much every other day. That said, Vacheron Constantin is not one for hype or unwarranted superlatives, and when they say their Les Cabinotiers department offers truly unique watchmaking, well, let’s just say they aren’t playing around. What the brand hangs their hat on here is that they can (and will) build one-off watches. These unique pieces are either created to a client’s specification, or as single watches devised by the department to showcase their immense talents, and give a glimse of what is possible. Sometimes they go so far as to create new calibers and develop new techniques should the commission call for it. That said, the pieces need to remain within the brand’s traditional guidelines to a certain respect. After all, you wouldn’t turn to Vacheron Constantin to build you an oversized, ultra-contemporary sports watch. The brand has gone to great lengths to maintain a high level of skill…
I’m not sure if Lou Reed would have liked this watch (I hope he would have), but I know I certainly do. The modern sports line that is the Defy is an increasing priority for Zenith – a key, future-facing pillar for the brand that is both distinctive and incredibly versatile. This new version, all 41mm of blinding white ceramic, proves this point. Do me a favour, take a minute and check out another version of this self same design. Now, look at the watch below. It’s a marked difference. With the matt ceramic case, open-worked dial (replete with that signature star motif) and textured white rubber strap, there’s little argument that this is a watch intended to make a statement. Legibility, for example, is not the aim of the game. Having said that, in the few minutes I wore this piece (a few minutes more than I should have — I was a little smitten), I was quite taken at how wearable it was. Maybe not a daily suit-and-tie watch, but if you rock a more casual style, it’s certainly a viable regular rotation contender — especially if you were to swap the strap out for something a little more…