We’ve been exploring the Dutch fields of watchmaking recently, with for instance the Van der Gang 20019 chronograph, the 3D-Printed watches of Dutch watchmaker Michiel Holthinrichs or the first watch by De Rijke Watches & Co, the Amalfi Series I. Today we shed light on yet another Dutch creation, driven by one man’s passion for […]
Walking into Bremont’s brand new Melbourne boutique, it doesn’t take long to work out the brand’s military and aviation connection. If the spartan style of the watches didn’t give the game away, the pictures of planes on the walls, the hanging model biplane, and the actual, very battered looking ejection seat sitting front-and-centre kind of give it away. Not that all those fine details were too easy to spot last night, as the space was packed with people who either loved the brand or were keen to find out more. And amongst the brand’s most die-hard fans are the people who actually fly, and live the brand image, many of them military pilots. From the earliest days of the brand, Bremont has had a strong involvement with the military, doing custom pieces for members of the armed forces. These were the uber-cool, ultra-rare watches I tracked down last night and, boy, did I spot some good ones. Bremont’s tagline is ‘tested beyond endurance’, and this watch proves the point. It was made for a RAAF EA-18G Growler — an advanced electronic warfare fighter — that took part in exercises with the US Air Force in Nevada. Except this plane didn’t make it…
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On the off chance that you’re not, Ulysse Nardin is a brand you should be paying attention to. There’s a real energy around the Le Locle-based manufacture – all the burners are firing. And while one of the brand’s most discussed 2019 releases – the exquisitely painted sexy mermaid pieces of the Classico Manara series — is *too rude* for T+T, there’s still plenty of other, less X-rated horology to discuss. Like the new Freak X, a technically toned down take on their iconic rebel that still delivers high impact with less of a hit to the hip pocket. And then there’s the Skeleton X, a modern skeletonised piece that’s technical and cool, especially in the Carbonium case. Finally, if you’re after something a little more everyday and tool-like, there’s a stylish new diver, which offers enough twists on the classic genre to make it worth a second (and third) look. As recently as a few years ago it seemed like Ulysse Nardin was all at sea, but 2019’s tight, focused collection proves the brand is full steam ahead and ready for anything.
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For the first installment of our latest series, we look at how one New York City collector has made Grand Seiko an important part of his daily life.
It’s only March but Panerai has already made it clear that 2019 is unequivocally about the dive watch. The professional grade Submersible dive watch to be specific, which this year becomes a stand-alone collection in its own right. Alongside the new models, Panerai is also offering unique ‘experiences’ related to the world of the Submersible. These experiences are exclusively available to those who purchase one of the special, limited edition models within the new range. The Panerai Submersible Chrono Guillaume Néry Edition PAM00983 we are looking at today, for example, is limited to just 15 pieces and comes complete with a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
The Mille Miglia gets a petrol-fueled punk treatment
The Mille Miglia gets a petrol-fueled punk treatment
The boys dig into a few examples of perfect gear.
The Speake-Marin One&Two collection was launched just two years ago. First, the brand’s signature case, the Picadilly, got a facelift – a tasteful redesign conducted with Eric Giroud. Secondly, the movements inside are worth a look. In addition to the Small Seconds model and its Openworked development, the brand added a GMT version at SIHH 2019. And there was a nice, astronomical watch next to it, the Speake-Marin One&Two Academic Full Moon.
As far as high-comps departments go, Jaeger-LeCoultre is right up in the most rarefied air of exhilarating places to be for a young watchmaker. But first, how to get there? What traits and qualities does JLC look for in the process of hiring the best and brightest new watchmakers? Stéphane Belmont, Director of Heritage and Rare Pieces, explains what it takes. What skills do you look for in the technicians who will work in the high complications department? There is not one type. We have very different personalities who work in this department – the diversity of the people is key to achieve those complications because you need people who are very quick to capture an idea and begin to engage their skills. They will find the solution as a team almost right away. The attitude is, “Ah yeah, I think I can do it.” They are very intuitive and they feel like they will find a solution. You also need other people, who are much more settled, that will then, from the time of this first idea, very carefully develop every single part, check that everything can work and do the real hard work of developing the watch. At…
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