Hands-on – Speake-Marin One&Two Openworked Dual Time – Classical Meet Technical
Following in the footsteps of the successful time-only One&Two Openworked model launched in 2017, Speake-Marin unveiled its latest One&Two Openworked model with a dual time function and a retrograde date display at the SIHH 2019. The new Dual Time model builds on the brand’s base SMA01 calibre with two new complications and steers the design codes into a more contemporary direction with an intrepid combination of classic details and defiantly technical elements.
Few names loom larger in the collective consciousness of horological history than Gérald Genta. He’s one of the few individual designers whose name — because of the strength of his work — stands as tall as the great houses for whom he worked. But later in his career, Genta launched his own eponymous brand which demonstrated a penchant for retrograde displays and Disney characters. Eventually, the Genta brand was acquired by Bulgari, who have continued to evolve some of the great designer’s works under their own name, and to great effect. Which was why this watch, presented recently in Geneva, was such a surprise. This special edition platinum piece has been made to honour the 50th anniversary of the founding of the Gérald Genta brand, and it does so in a remarkably faithful way. The DNA of this watch, with the double retrograde movement and stylised, rounded case, is very Genta. Sure, it’s been toned down a little with a simple blue sunburst dial, the characteristic typeface (just check out that GG logo and text at the bottom of the dial — outstanding!) and a case that features Genta’s trademark crown. When I spoke to Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani – Bulgari’s…
Editor’s note: Someone I know is in the process of looking for a new watch – a Breitling Aerospace to be specific. Now, on first glance, this weird old ana-digi watch might not have much going for it, but, really, for a watch so light, this watch packs a big punch. And you know why? Well, I don’t want to give the game away, so read on … Case profile. There, I said it. It might not be as sexy as the movement or the dial, but in terms of real-world user-friendliness, it’s the kingmaker or deal-breaker. The problem is, watchmakers and fans are conditioned to a very top-down visual approach of watches. Look at any brand’s site, or most of the watches on Instagram, and what do you see? Dials. A whole lot of dials. And, honestly, it makes sense. The top-down dial shot encompasses most of what a watch is about. The dial is the visual star, and a typical wrist shot at least gives you some sense of what a watch looks like on the wrist, but it doesn’t really give you any sense of what it’s like to wear a watch on the wrist, because —…
