HODINKEE Radio: Episode 18: GPHG 2018 Preview (And Some Auction Talk)
The Oscars of watchmaking will be decided this Friday – here are our editors’ predictions.
In-Depth – The Graham Chronofighter and Its Unique Trigger Explained
Named after the great British watchmaker, Graham was founded by Eric Loth in 1995. The Chronofighter, the cornerstone of the brand’s collections, is inspired by vintage military aviation pieces – in particular, 1930s and 1940s bomb timers. When it was launched in 2001, the model immediately drew attention, breaking out of the norm with its […]
EDITOR’S PICK: An exercise in subtlety – the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon
Editor’s note: I really don’t need a moon phase (heck, I really don’t need a mechanical watch, but that’s something else entirely), but I really want one. There’s just something so pointlessly romantic about the whole proposition of knowing your wax from your wane that just gets me (in fact, that same sentiment applies to mechanical watches in general). And one of the most charming options in recent times is this beauty from JLC … ‘Novelty’ is one of the most abused words in the watch industry. Practically, it’s used to describe the steady stream of new models and designs being produced by watchmaking brands. But on top of that, it conveys a sense of newness and — marketing departments fervently hope — excitement. For example, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2017 novelties were their Master Control trilogy — they excited people, and rightfully so. And while this grey-dialled Master Ultra Thin Moon is a new release, it’s not really a novelty — it didn’t make headlines at SIHH, and doesn’t showcase any innovations in mechanics or material. But despite this (or perhaps because of it), this serious, ghostly grey Master Ultra Thin Moon is an exceptionally beautiful piece of watchmaking, the sort that JLC excels…
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MY MONTH WITH: A beaten-up Omega Seamaster 300
A few months ago I ended up wearing the Omega Seamaster 300 for a month or so. Now, unusually for me, this wasn’t a PR sample or anything, but an actual real watch, that I borrowed off a mate who wanted to try one of my watches on for size. Now, I’m typically hesitant to do this, as I would hate something to happen to the watch when it’s in my care. “Don’t worry,” said my mate, “I’m not precious.” Somewhat comforted by these words, I made my way to a local cafe to complete the hand-off. Several coffees and much amiable watch banter later, I walked off with the Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial (to give it its full name) buckled onto my wrist. My first impression was … jeez, he really wasn’t joking about not being precious — this watch is well-loved. Which is something I don’t get to see too much. The watches I review typically come in box-fresh condition, but that’s not what happens in the real world. Buckles, one of the main points where your watch meets the world, quickly gain a unique, swirled and dented character all their own, and the watch behind tells a tale…
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Sunday Rewind: Looking Back At The 2017 Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition In New York City
It’s not every day you get to see a collection of watches like this.
A Technical Perspective – The Peripheral Rotor, a Smart and Stylish Solution
Since 2009 and the introduction of the Carl F Bucherer Calibre A1000, peripheral rotors are getting more and more in vogue. With this smart and stylish solution, the winding mass is an annular segment mounted and swinging around the movement, instead of a centrally mounted oscillating weight rotating over it. This offers an unobstructed view of the movement along with providing the convenience of automatic winding. In addition, peripheral rotors allow watchmakers to design thinner self-winding watches, without adding to their thickness with an oscillating weight rotating over the movement.
RECOMMENDED READING: 10 tools every watch guy needs
It would be a mistake to assume that a love of watches is just a love of watches. What might seem like a casual interest or hobby, can, when left unchecked, become a fully blown lifestyle — resulting in everything from apparel (hands up who has a watch brand hat or five in the cupboard), through to drawers full of straps and other, more esoteric, paraphernalia. It’s this last bit that our friends over at Fratello address in this excellent, and dangerously informative list, which is perfectly timed for the holiday period. Excuse me while I head over to eBay to hunt for a demagnetiser … Head over to Fratello for the full story.
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WHO TO FOLLOW: @WoodsWatchmaking, a third generation Australian watchmaker
Michael Woods loves travelling, playing basketball and is a proud dad. He’s also a third generation watchmaker who previously managed After-Sales for Rolex Melbourne. Hi Michael, what’s your daily watch? It depends on my mood, what inspires me, or what I’m doing for that day or week. It’s not uncommon for me to wear a few different watches in the same week. What does your collection look like? I have gathered quite a collection over the years, but I’ll mention the ones that mean most to me or the ones that get the most wrist time. I have an Omega Constellation Day-Date from 1972, which was left to me by my grandfather who passed away in the early ’90s. He was the first watchmaker in the family, so it’s a very sentimental piece. I also have an IWC Automatic in steel from 1962, which I actually found on eBay. I was attracted to its simple, elegant look, and it is very comfortable to wear, so I restored the movement and it’s stayed in the rotation. There’s also a Rolex Deepsea, which I purchased not long after the model was first released. I received training on the specifics of the case construction…
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Weekend Round-Up: Wines That Pair With Turkey, Art That Inspires Films, And The Ubiquity Of CBD
The week’s can’t-miss stories from around the web.
Hands-on – The new Brellum Wyvern Manufacture Limited Edition
If you are a regular reader of MONOCHROME, you are probably familiar with Brellum. This young micro-brand was launched two years ago by Sebastien Muller with the Duobox, a cool, retro-inspired chronograph powered by COSC-certified Valjoux 7750 movements. After this first (and rather successful) attempt with a sporty chronograph, it is time for the brand to expand the collection with a new classic watch, the Brellum Wyvern Manufacture.