LIST: Do I still rate my top 10 watches of 2017? Uh. Hmmm. Some of them?
There are all kinds of forces at work when you’re under pressure to come up with your ‘best of the year’ lists. There’s end of year fatigue. There’s the hype around new releases, late in the piece. There’s bias of every possible variety. It’s much more clear-eyed in September of the year after. So here goes. What I said in December 2017, or Jan 2018 versus all of the settling and objectivity that comes with nine months distance. Audemars Piguet Extra-Thin ‘Jumbo’ Royal Oak (Ref 15202) Then: “Yellow gold combined with navy dials always catch my eye, but the fascination I have for this ‘Golden Oak’ 40th Anniversary edition, released at SIHH in January, endured the year.” Now: No. Not one of the watches of the year. Yes, still a classic. Yes, arguably the best combination of materials and colourway for the AP ET J RO. But one of the best 10 releases? I was letting my envy of a local guy, who has the watch and still walks past me most days on the way to the office, get in the way. Cartier Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat Then: “At first, the Cartier Drive was mostly masculine, but now — care of the svelte…
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Since their dramatic reboot in 2012, Tudor has continually upped the game. From the original Black Bay, to the development of in-house movements, new case materials, and complications like the chronograph, every year brings a new surprise. Based on this track record, I’m always excited to see what Tudor will do next with the Black Bay, not least because of the element of brinkmanship at play. Well, this year Tudor outdid themselves once again with the Heritage Black Bay GMT. It’s a hot watch. Not just because of its obvious good looks — I mean, just look at that bezel — it’s also an extremely high-quality offering, which can be said for all Tudor’s pieces, and it’s also technically impressive, with its brand new ‘true’ GMT. Really, it’s the complete package. Classic style, quality build and a compelling price. What’s not to like? Tudor Heritage Black Bay GMT Australian pricing Tudor Heritage Black Bay GMT, on bracelet, $4670
If you think of a pilot’s watch, there’s a good chance you’re thinking of a large round watch, with a black dial and bold Arabic numerals. Well, Alpina’s latest, the Startimer Pilot Heritage, ticks none of these boxes, but that doesn’t make it any less of a pilot’s watch. The design of the Startimer Pilot Heritage owes less to the WWII era that’s commonly the reference point for this sort of watch; instead, Alpina has looked to the ’70s for inspiration, and clearly they found it, in an Alpina alarm watch called the Dispomatic. The 42mm tonneau is funky fresh, a wrist-friendly shape that’s not too tall at 12mm. And while the case has an uncommon shape, radially brushed bezel and polished sides, the face matches it step for step. There’s quite a lot going on dial-wise. Offered in black, dark or light blue, and salmon (my personal preference), they all look great, thanks to the sunray finish under the box sapphire crystal. Beyond those basics, the finer details are also super ’70s: faceted hour markers with luminous tips, simple hands and vibrant orange hour hand, with a date window at three (complete with internal date magnifier). And then there’s…
