EDITOR’S PICK: The world’s first modern-day men’s wristwatch gets an update
Editor’s note: The Santos has come a long way since it was first wrapped around the wrist of famed pioneering pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont. What was first a small piece of mechanical genius attached to his wrist by a sliver of soft leather is now a complete collection that features an amazing QuickSwitch strap-changing system, as well as a very clever SmartLink bracelet resizing technique. What forever remains, however, is the powerful appeal of the Santos — as strong today as when those magnificent men in their flying machines first took to the skies. It’s a tricky task upgrading a storied and legendary watch such as the Santos — you must innovate while appearing to be unchanging. It’s a job that Cartier have pulled off with aplomb at SIHH 2018. The new Santos is the star in their masculine line-up, a sensitive update that brings the design very much up to date. But first, a quick origin story. The Santos claims the enviable title of the first modern wristwatch, made by Louis Cartier in 1904 for Brazilian aviator, bon vivant and (apparently) all-round cool guy Alberto Santos-Dumont. The watch quickly caught on and has had pride of place in Cartier’s line-up ever since. So…
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What can and can’t be dubbed a ‘Beater Watch’ remains a contentious issue among many. Whether ’tis nobler in the mind to let your watch suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune, or to take arms against a sea of troubles and shelter your beloved watch from harm. The ponderings of Hamlet seemed oddly fitting one morning as I awoke to a notification and a Rolex Forum’s link, where it seemed a comment I’d made in a previous story had stirred the pot on the topic of beater/daily wear watches. While it was interesting to see the contrasting replies to the story itself, what proved more fascinating was the distinctly different ways in which people defined the criteria of a beater watch in the first place. Case in point, the words of forum member ‘Burlington’ who stated the following: Big difference to me at least between a daily wearer and an actual beater watch, which will be treated roughly, bounced around, mis-thrown into gym bags, scraped and scratched and used for ANY task or circumstance where loss or catastrophic damage are of a high likelihood. I think we need to start by clearing the air on what we mean…
If anyone was ever to charge me with a unreasonable love of extravagant, gem-set statement watches, the evidence would be easy to find, and damning (Your Honour, I would point to evidence here, here and here, the prosecutor might say). And if I were to continue using the courtroom metaphor, and was allowed to call a key witness in my defence, I’d be calling this watch. The case, a well-sized 42mm tonneau, is in sapphire, already an attention-seeker. Add to that the 54 baguette-cut stones (including sapphires, rubies, amethysts, topazes and tsavorites) in rainbow hues on the bezel and you’ve got a watch that owns any room it’s in. Subtle – no. Awesome – heck yes! Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Sapphire Rainbow Australian pricing and availability Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Sapphire Rainbow, limited to 50 pieces, $148,000.