Following Antonio Calce’s departure a few weeks ago, French luxury group Kering just announced the appointment of Patrick Pruniaux as CEO of its Swiss watchmaking Maisons. Therefore, the current CEO of Ulysse Nardin will now also manage Girard-Perregaux, one of the most prestigious names of the Swiss Haute Horlogerie and guide the brand to meet current challenges.
It’s not unusual to see high-flyers Bell & Ross take inspiration from the world of aviation. In fact, it’s almost expected. However, the latest addition to their “Horo” label does it with a far more “grounded” perspective. Finding its muse in the practical aesthetic of an airport runway. Following on from last year’s three-handed Horolum, the Parisian brand has taken the next logical step and added a chronograph, featuring all the utilitarian styling of the original that’s sure to please the tool watch crowd. Beginning with the brand’s ever-popular BR-03 square case design, the BR 03-94 Horolum uses a 42mm microblasted steel case, with large rectangular pushers on its side to control the chronograph. By microblasting the case with a high-pressure spray of tiny glass beads, Bell & Ross were able to dull down the finish, creating a matt concrete-grey colouring that doesn’t reflect light, an effect that is also matched on its sandwich-style dial. That sees the hour markers of its top metal plate cut out to reveal a healthy dosing of lume – in step with all five hands of the Horolum – that has been applied below. Powering it from within is an ETA-based automatic chronograph movement,…
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A unique and quirky watch obsessed with the Sun, the Moon, and you.
A year ago, Bell & Ross introduced the BR 03-92 Diver, the brand’s take on the dive watch. While it was not the first time B&R produces a watch to explore the deep blue sea – some of the earliest models were dive watches (inc. the impressive Hydromax 11000m) – this new watch was the first to mix the iconic square case with proper diving capacities. Utterly different from the rest of the crowd and at the same time genuinely familiar, it was an immediate success. This year, the collection expands with 2 new versions, in blue or in bronze. I spent my summer with the latter and here’s our take on it.
The creative director and Condé Nast veteran has a lot of interesting things to say about…well, everything.
Genuinely different… When re-launched in 2015, the name Czapek made quite an impression, not only because of the watches presented back then but also because of the way the project had been financed. While crowdfunding often refers to affordable pieces, it is here attached to the words “Haute Horlogerie”. Very surprising indeed… This is why, today, we talk to Xavier de Roquemaurel, CEO of Czapek, to understand how the name has been revived, how the project came to life and what the future holds for this independent brand.
The story in a second: Bulgari’s latest take on the Octo Finissimo Automatic is the anti-gold gold watch. How about a riddle to start your Monday off right? When is a gold watch not a gold watch? When it’s Bulgari’s darling, the Octo Finissimo Automatic, in rose gold. Now, obviously it’s a gold watch, but it looks and wears like no other gold watch I’ve ever had the pleasure of wearing. The case While the movement and other elements of habillage are important to this watch, really, it’s about the case (and bracelet — more on that shortly). The design, the material, the treatment. All of it really. Let’s start with the familiar. The Octo Finissimo case itself is a pretty well-known quantity by now. It’s a much thinner (5.15mm to be precise) version of the regular Octo, which is an evolution of Genta’s original design. The Octo Finissimo Automatic is all sharp lines; the only curves to be seen are the bezel (even that is encompassed by an octagonal frame) and the crown. Everything else is facets and angles. The resulting look is instantly iconic, a strong, decidedly contemporary look that, unlike many high-end avant-garde designs, manages to be…
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Magical cylindrical tunnels of water. Riding inside a barrelling wave is considered by some to be the be-all and end-all of surfing. And while Hublot’s latest addition to the Spirit of Big Bang collection doesn’t exactly call for a rashie or a coating of wax, it does capture the essence of the sea, with an azure-coloured barrel-shaped case. Exclusive to Hublot boutiques and limited to 100 numbered pieces worldwide, the trademarked tonneau-shaped case measures 42mm across and perfectly captures the brand’s “Art of Fusion” mantra. Crafted from microblasted and polished blue ceramic, it features white composite resin side inserts, a set of titanium screws, and titanium pushers and crown that are finished with an insert made of rubber. Visible through the open-worked dial and its engraved display caseback is the HUB4700 automatic chronograph movement – which some may recognise as Zenith’s famed El Primero – with a 50-hour power reserve and a running rate of 5Hz. And in yet another melding of materials, a blue alligator strap is stitched onto white rubber. Originally introduced in 2014, the Spirit of Big Bang collection does exactly what it says on the tin. It captures the spirit of the Big Bang while sharing…
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The rescue-summoning Breitling Emergency’s become a part of modern watch lore – but do you actually know how it works?
Imagine Enzo Ferrari leaving his company after its reputation was well established, only to reemerge a year later with a new car brand offering affordable, compact sedans. As crazy as that scenario sounds, it’s kind of analogous to the current situation we have with Peter Speake-Marin. It wasn’t long ago that his name was associated with expensive, exclusive and complicated timepieces, featuring in-house movements, tourbillons, minute repeaters and more. Those days are behind Peter, who left the company last year to pursue other interests (inc. The Naked Watchmaker), but he’s suddenly back with a new watch brand, Stoic World. The Sports Watch is one of three in Stoic World’s portfolio of affordable, mainstream watches, having virtually no resemblance to his former collections. Let’s take a closer look at the Sports Watch (and touch on the other two) and see if this new direction is worthy of the Peter Speake-Marin name.