VIDEO: H. Moser & Cie’s 2018 collection brings the heat and of course those smoky dials
Where there’s smoke there’s fire. There’s a lot of truth to that saying, especially if we’re talking about H. Moser & Cie’s famous smoky fumé dials — the latest batch of watches they’re attached to are straight up fire. Take, for example, the Venturer Small Seconds XL Purity. The dial-heavy 43mm watch definitely lives up to its XL name, but it’s with those sparse markings in case-matching red gold and the awesome rhodium dial. It’s one of the most beautiful objects we’ve seen in a while. Of course, Moser’s star power went stratospheric a few years ago when they wittily riffed on the Apple Watch with their app-less Alp Watch. It’s since become a staple, and this year sees them add some serious complication in the form of a minute repeater, and (yet another) incredible dial. Other standouts include the smart Endeavour Flying Hours, one of the indie hits of SIHH, as well as the new, cosmic green interpretation of their steel hero, the Pioneer. Moser’s 2018 collection is coming to town next week (Sydney and Melbourne — sorry, other towns), and I can’t wait to have another look at these (very) rare beauties.
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I’m on the record as being a big fan of Grand Seiko, largely because their approach to watchmaking (the focus on accuracy, timeless design and wearer comfort) really resonates with me. However, I’m more than willing to admit that I buck the trend a little in my preference for the brand’s plainer, less jazzy dials. While I can admire and see the beauty in the iridescent green of the peacock, or the intricacy of the SBGR311 or SBGH267, my personal taste is a little more understated; I can’t see myself wearing those fancy fellas all day, everyday. Now, the SBGA375 — that’s a different story. This watch is made for everyday wear. A 40mm steel case, angular and bold (inspired by the 44GS), sets the tone. With its mix of surfaces it’s not too tooly or dressy (though I would stress about how quickly I’d scratch those broad, polished lugs and bezel). It’s a versatile vibe that continues to the three-link bracelet, with its slightly flashy polished centre-link edges. Though the lack of modern micro-adjustment on the bracelet might put some people off (but the drilled lugs are a winner in my book). The crown is screw down, and it…
If you’re reading this and thinking ‘grey’ and ‘Bulgari’, I’m welling to bet your mind wanders to this slender beauty. And while that’s entirely understandable, earlier this year we had a look at another, equally alluring take on the Octo — the Octo Roma with an anthracite sunburst dial. The Octo Roma is a fairly recent evolution of the Octo, a dressier, somewhat toned down version, where the octagonal shape that gives the model its name has been softened around the edges — notably with the circular brushed steel bezel — which means the 41mm Octo Roma does a good impression of a classical round watch while maintaining some of the appeal of a more boldly shaped watch. Really, though, the draw of this Octo Roma isn’t the shape. Sure, it’s a part of it, but for me it’s all about the grey-on-grey-on-grey colour scheme and the soft, almost velvety textures at play. The dial is richly textured, and the gunmetal colour provides plenty of visibility for the mirror-like hour markers and hands. The case, with its mix of brushed and polished finishes, sits harmoniously between the two. The black alligator strap and the handsomely finished in-house Solotempo BVL 191…
