A Week On The Wrist: The Omega Seamaster Railmaster
A new collection nods to the past while utilizing all of the brand’s latest technology.
H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Concept – Visually Pure, Mechanically Complex
The Endeavour Tourbillon Concept is an object of mesmerising beauty. Stripped back to its bare essentials, the nude, logo-free dial with its spectacular fumé finish offers a tantalising spectacle of the flying tourbillon. It is a sensual watch that perfectly incarnates the philosophy that less can mean a whole lot more. Minimalism is a word that gets used a lot to describe H.Moser & Cie.’s approach to watchmaking, where complications are revisited and displayed in ingeniously simple ways. Who can forget the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept watch that took ‘minimalism’ to unprecedented heights with its naked dial?
Introducing: The Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet GMT
A Blancpain classic gets a technological upgrade.
Pre-Baselworld 2018 – Bell & Ross BR03-92 Horoblack and BR03-94 Horolum
Last year the Parisian brand Bell & Ross brought us new releases in their BR03-range, with one clear thing in mind: back to basics. The “Horo” line focused on simple, striking squared cases, micro-blasted matte finishing and an utter utilitarian look and feel – a concept also shared by the new BR03-92 Nightlume. This year, Bell & Ross introduces two new members; the BR03-92 Horoblack and the BR03-94 Horolum – and again, legibility first.
INTRODUCING: The sporty TAG Heuer Link Calibre 17 Chronograph
Last year, I went hands-on with the sleek three-handed TAG Heuer Link, which saw itself revived into the men’s collection after letting the ladies Link have the first turn in 2016. While the makeover leaned more towards the elegant side of the Link’s sporting elegance roots, this year sees a sportier return to the collection, with the introduction of a tri-compax chronograph. Vital statistics Featuring a sunray dial of either black or blue, there’s an angled date window at 4:30, accompanied by a small seconds subdial at 3 o’clock, a chronograph minute counter at 9 o’clock, and an hour counter at 6 o’clock. With all three cross-hair-centre subdials finished in a light-reflecting snailed pattern. However, regardless of the extra information, surrounding the open dial is the same 41mm stainless-steel case that sits somewhere between round and cushion-shaped with a water resistance of 100 metres. Its two-part bezel, made up of four subtle corners that are contrasted by a satin-brushed circle on the inside, and soft curves that gently transition into the famously ergonomic (and silky smooth) S-shaped linked bracelet, foregoing the need for lugs. Only now, flanking either side of the guarded crown are two elongated pushers that control the Calibre…
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VIDEO: Our favourite watches of SIHH 2018 – part 2, $10,000-20,000
Yesterday, we ran through our picks of SIHH 2018 at the more accessible end of the spectrum, bearing in mind that the HH in SIHH stands for ‘High Horology’. Today, we kick it up a notch, looking at watches that come in between $10-$20k. There are a lot of meaty options in this price point, something that’s reflected in the fairly diverse opinions of Sandra, Andrew, Justin and myself – as we’ve picked out simple, time-only pieces as well as some more complex pieces. I’m not going to spoil the surprise (or the LOLs), but take, for example, Justin’s pick – the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph WT, a watch that is just over the top end of our budget but offers a strong mix of world time and chronograph complication in a stylish sports case and with a pretty exceptional movement. Or, as Justin puts it: “I’ve always found it hard to find a nice world time chronograph with more then 30-minute registers. It drives me bonkers.” We hear you, Justin, we hear you. Now, onto our top watches of SIHH 2018, between $10,000 and $20,000, Stay tuned as things get more expensive tomorrow.
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Technical Perspective: How Accurate Should Your Mechanical Watch Actually Be?
Unsurprisingly enough, the answer is “it depends.”
Jacob & Co. Opera Godfather Edition – Mechanically (and musically) Intriguing
Music exists in time. Uniting two traditional Swiss crafts, the Jacob & Co. Opera is a highly complicated timepiece and a wearable music box at the same time… Moreover, it is a spectacular show on the wrist that is pretty hard to depict. The ballet of its triple-axis tourbillon and its musical mechanism in action is surprising and captivating. Technically, the combination of these two rare complications is impressive. There is indeed a lot happening and if a picture is worth a 1,000 words, a video is worth a million… It is even a must to present a timepiece that defies traditional labels by playing the Godfather theme and by featuring a miniature Don Vito Corleone in its center!
Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02
The brand’s flagship watch now comes with the in-house Heuer 02 movement.
Pre-Baselworld 2018 – Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet GMT
The combination of a complete calendar (or Quantième Complet in French) with a moonphase indication and a GMT function is a classic at Blancpain. Indeed, this interesting and practical combination of complications established itself as a mainstay with its original debut in 2002. Even more, the complete calendar is a signature display of the brand since its re-inception in the 1980s. For Baselworld 2018, the Le Brassus-based manufacture reinterprets this classic in a modern way, with a redesigned dial, an improved movement and more practicality. Here is the Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet GMT.