FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 10th November, 2017 – the Basel edition
Wait, Basel in November?! What’s going on here? An understandable reaction but, still, Baselworld 2018 is in the headlines, five whole months before it opens its doors. But we’ll get to that in a second, right after we finish mixing this delicious summery cocktail (a lukewarm beer IRL), and saunter off to (yet another) glamorous party (more deadlines IRL). Let’s wind this Friday down! What happened? Well, last night I got a seemingly innocuous email from the Baselworld mailing list I’m subscribed to. I was tempted to archive it for future *cough* reading *cough*, but my curiosity was piqued, as it seemed pretty early. And I am glad I hit open, because there were some key words in the opening lines that really jumped out at me: ‘Baselworld repositions its concept’. Huh? Now, for as long as I (or most) can remember, Baselworld has been the immovable rock of the watch industry. A shambling, spectacular, monolithic event, sprawled over two weeks. Well, that’s all set to change next year, as the fair is shorter, running for six instead of eight days, and far smaller, with an expected 600 – 800 exhibiting companies. Down around 50 per cent from the 1500…
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An important part of the process when reviewing a watch is imagining who the watch is for. Sometimes this perceived wearer can be quite general: “someone who wants a nice dive watch”. Or it can be a little more specific: “a 35-year-old frequent flyer who wants to make a subtle statement with their wrist”. In the case of these 38mm gold Laureatos my imagined wearer is a little more specific. Gianni Agnelli. If you’re not familiar with Mr Agnelli, you really should be. He was one of the most stylish men of the 20th century, a politician, industrialist and international playboy. In watch circles he’s also (in)famous for wearing his watch over his shirt cuff. So, how does all this relate to the Girard-Perregaux Laureato? Well, aside from the Italian link (the Laureato was originally designed by an Italian architect in 1975), if I had to describe this watch in two words it would be Retro-industrialist chic (I’m claiming the compound word as one). It’s really a watch that’s defined by lifestyle rather than function, an object of beauty that speaks to business, purpose and an extravagant life punctuated by long lunches. It’s also a dressier, more sartorially suited option…
Just one look at their anchor-shaped logo should be a clue to the centuries old maritime heritage of Ulysse Nardin. Their Marine collection, which has hoisted the sails for more than 20 years, was last year celebrated with the release of the mesmerisingly complicated Ulysse Nardin Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon. After all, UN aren’t only about the high seas. Avant-garde designs and clever complications are common throughout their catalogue. This year, UN have added a warm touch to the Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon, with a darker colour scheme and a change of material for the case. Now made from 18k rose gold, the case remains sized at 44mm, and shares most of the same design codes as the rest of the Marine collection. It still has the same fluted bezel, integrated lugs with leather strap, and screw-down rubber-coated crown – helping to maintain its 100m water resistance. However, as with the original, the star of the show is the way in which the Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon displays the time. Top and centre of the dial is a large jumping hour display, which is quickly and independently adjusted by a pusher at 2 o’clock. Working in conjunction to display the…
A few hours ago, watchmaking’s night of nights – the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève – wrapped up (though we suspect the afterparties may still be in full swing), and 15 prizes, along with a special jury prize, were awarded by the jury. The GPHG awards are often hotly debated, but do, nonetheless, provide an interesting barometer of where the watch industry is at. This year’s winners are an interesting mix of bigger brands and niche players, haute horology and a more mass approach. I also think it’s great to see a focus on commercially minded innovation, which is perhaps indicative of where the industry’s mind is at right now. But that’s enough from me. Here are the winners. MEN’S WATCH PRIZE Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic This hotly tipped favourite is a worthy winner. Read our review here. “AIGUILLE D’OR” GRAND PRIX Chopard L.U.C. Full Strike Chopard has quietly been making excellent watches for years. It just paid off, big time. LADIES’ WATCH PRIZE Chanel Première Camélia Skeleton Chanel’s second manufacture movement is an attractive blend of brand motif and engineering prowess. LADIES’ HIGH-MECH WATCH PRIZE Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Papillon Automate Whimsical. Ingenious. Beautiful. When it comes…