In The Shop: A 1960s Omega DeVille Chronograph Ref. 145.017, A 1979 Rolex Datejust With ‘Buckley’ Dial, And A 1970s Doxa ‘Searambler’
Classics from Omega and Rolex anchor this week’s selection.
Classics from Omega and Rolex anchor this week’s selection.
It wouldn’t be fair of me to write this review without stating upfront that this brand is one of my all-time favourites for a host of reasons that run the gamut from history to craftsmanship and more. Still, I refused to let that cloud my judgment as I was wearing the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase watch, an elegant and slightly different conception of Haute-Horlogerie for Ladies.
Introduced in the early 1990s, the Masterpiece family is Maurice Lacroix’s top-of-the-range collection, and offers complications at an accessible price point. At Baselworld this year, the brand unveiled new versions of its Masterpiece Chronograph Skeleton – an intricately executed openwork chronograph based on the Valjoux 7750. The 2017 models are presented with a steel case with blue dial and a limited edition blue PVD steel case with matching dial.
Grand Seiko is known for many things: mirror-like finishes, incredibly crisp casework and a design style that veers from conservative to downright quirky. But this is not a brand that springs to mind when you think of professional-grade dive watches. Until now. At Basel this year Grand Seiko released this mighty beast that we (in the best tradition of Seiko-related nicknames) have dubbed ‘The Kraken’. Now to be honest, unless you’ve got arms like Dwayne Johnson, I’m willing to bet you don’t have the wrist presence to rock this 46.9mm-wide by 16.9mm-thick behemoth (which is surprisingly light, thanks to the titanium construction). However, that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t give it a go, especially given the suitably grand level of fit and finish on display. And while the blue dial is our pick, it’s quite limited at 500 pieces, so the regular-edition black-dialled version might be the easier fish to land. Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m (refs. SBGH255, SBGH257) Australian pricing and availability Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m, ref. SBGH255, $14,200; the blue-dialled SBGH257, limited to 500 pieces, $14,600
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Soon after the introduction of the motor car came the introduction of motorsports. Our inherently competitive nature driving us in our search for speed and steering what was one the greatest inventions in human history towards its inevitable competitive use. From motor racing’s early days, timepieces were used to measure the difference separating victory and defeat, and, ever since, cars and watches have cosied up in the back seat with an inexhaustable (unlike these fast-paced puns) roll call of pairings. At the beginning of the 1900s, one of the main players in motorsport timekeeping was Minerva. The manufacturer was one of the first to produce movements capable of precisely measuring fractions of a second. Fast-forward to the 21st century, and Minerva’s motorsport heritage – which is now part of Montblanc’s – is being honoured in the latest Montblanc TimeWalker collection. This collection is not only home to limited-edition rally timers and UTC chronographs but also simple three-handers – the black, and the silvery-white dialled TimeWalker Date Automatics. This sporty pair shares the same basic design architecture – clean dials with large Arabic numeral hour markers and a date aperture at 3 o’clock – with their only differences being the colour and…
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The antiquarian horologist will present her thesis research on “Dutch forgeries” and the birth of mass production in the European watch industry.
Roger Dubuis is the new watch partner of Lamborghini Squadra Corse, and the two are kicking things off with something serious.
The other day I had the distinct pleasure of spending a few days with A. Lange & Söhne in Florence, Italy. The main purpose was the launch of the Lange 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst and four new blue dial version (Lange 1, Lange 1 Daymatic, Saxonia and Saxonia handwound), all of which we already showed you last weekend. The team at Lange organized several ‘field trips’ to various handcrafts, like lithography, fabric weaving and printing, among others, and we visited one of the most prestigious winemakers from Tuscany (the region in which Florence is located.) Wilhelm Schmid, the brand’s CEO, tells us more about Handwerkskunst and handcrafts, plus I’ll share wrist shots of a group of Lange collectors whom I accidentally ran into. Be warned… LOTS of photos!
Diamonds on the bezel, considerable technical horsepower under the hood.
Tutima has a long and prestigious history; the origins of the brand go as far back as the 1920s and 1930s in Glasshütte, when Tutima was the quality label of the UROFA-UFAG group. After the fall of the Berlin wall, several watchmakers looked at reviving the Saxon watchmaking tradition and the ‘made in Germany’ trademark, specifically in Glasshütte. Among them was Dieter Delecate, owner and CEO of Tutima, then headquarted in the north of Germany, near Bremen.