Historical Perspective – The Missing Link, The Rolex Reference 6202 or the “Pre-Submariner”
The Rolex Submariner is, undoubtedly, the most emblematic dive watch ever created, in addition to being amongst the most legendary watches ever shaped. Presented more than 60 years ago, in 1953, it was part of the very first timekeeping instruments to be conceived for a new generation of pioneers; divers. During its over six decades’ career, the Submariner has both drastically evolved on the technical side, but remained visually true to its origins. Thanks to our “columnist extraordinaire” Paul Altieri (Founder and CEO of Bob’s Watches), we are going to take a look at some of the most important Rolex Submariner’s references, starting today with… a Turn-O-Graph, the reference 6202 that we’d call “the missing link”.
There have been big changes at the Franck Muller manufacture over the last couple of years. The once homely property on a hillside looking out over Lake Geneva has been thoroughly expanded and modernised – Baroque and Romanesque flourishes inside and out have been updated to the more spacious proportions created by exposed beams and vaulted ceilings, all befitting of a luxurious ski lodge. Somewhere in a light-filled room appointed with watchmaker’s benches in this village of multi-storey buildings is the Franck Muller ‘Tourbillon Department’. The warmest thing in this room, no matter the time of year, is Patrice Couston’s smile. He is the head of the Department and his passion for what he does is unmistakeable. To the extent that, after a tour and his explanation of some of the challenges faced in by one attempting to assemble a tourbillon, he reached into his pocket and pulled out a watch he had assembled in his spare time at home, also a tourbillon. “I’m crazy for the tourbillon so I said ok, I will transform this movement into a tourbillon. So I did.”
Until its relaunch earlier this year, the IWC Da Vinci collection was sometimes overlooked, and unfairly so, as it has housed several “firsts” for the company. First introduced in 1969, it was the first watch from the Schaffhausen manufacturer to feature a quartz movement – the famous Beta 21 – which was the product of a collaboration between 21 of the top Swiss houses, including Omega and Patek Philippe. Then, in 1985 the collection was given new life with the release of the awe-inspiring Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar (ref. 3750). Equipped with a perpetual calendar module developed by IWC’s renowned master watchmaker, Kurt Klaus – which was installed on a heavily modified Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement – it was the first perpetual calendar movement on which all complications could be set using only the crown. This year, as well as returning to the round case with articulated lugs design of the 1980s, IWC has released a faithful tribute to the iconic ref. 3750 – the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph – which, in another first for the manufacturer, combines the chronograph hours and minutes counters, and a moon-phase complication on a single subdial at 12 o’clock. To achieve this, the engineers at…
The story in a second It’s all in the bezel. One of the more interesting watches to come across my desk in recent months is this Oris ProPilot Worldtimer. Now, at first glance you might wonder why, as it looks every inch a regular ProPilot, albeit one with a second time zone on display. But this sturdy pilot’s watch has a trick up its proverbial sleeve – an innovative and awesomely user-friendly time zone adjustment method. Add this novel feature to Oris’ already proven robust build quality and versatile style and the ProPilot Worldtimer is an automatic finalist in the ‘Best dual-timer of 2017’ awards. The case First thing’s first. The case. This particular Big Crown definitely lives up to the ‘big’ moniker, coming in at a substantial 44.7mm across and sitting roughly 12mm high. Getting the watch wet isn’t too much of a concern, thanks to the grippy screw-down crown and 100 metres of water resistance. The style of the case follows the familiar form of the ProPilot; simple, sturdy, and with the distinctive coin-edged bezel with polished top ring. But this bezel isn’t just for show. In an ingenious bit of engineering, a simple twist of this bi-directional…