Frank Geelen’s Baselworld 2017 Top 10 and Musing about the Fair
Back in 2008 the world faced a new challenge. The worldwide financial crisis began with the collapse of Lehman Brothers. The following year the watch industry was kind of nervous and saw a small drop in sales. And while the financial crisis went on, on a global scale (we’re still recovering from that), the big crisis in the watch industry didn’t really come through… yet. Last year was the first year that brands and luxury groups published numbers that showed serious signs of the crisis, and this year’s numbers are actually more than worrisome. This year the crisis could also be felt in the novelties as presented by the brands, not only during the SIHH in January, but also at the 100th edition of the Baselworld Watch & Jewelry show that has just come to an end. Still, it was possible to list ten watches that got me exited! However first some musings about this year’s edition of Baselworld…
On some matters you can trust us unreservedly. Like on the topic of watches, for example. But when things get tricky, and we verge into how to wear them, and what to wear them with, we tend to consult the experts. We were lucky enough to have the ex-Editor of GQ on staff for some time, which neatly covered the area off. And, on a trip to Florence in May last year, we had someone whose life revolves around sartorial choices: Chris Edwards, co-founder of Australian tailors, Oscar Hunt with us. Because you need backup at a gig like Pitti Uomo. We are mere watch geeks after all. We asked him how he’d go about wearing a gold watch. This is what he said. If you’re in the mood, see below for Chris’ review of a watch he now owns – the Cartier Drive. Warning: This watch review with a difference may contain traces of mancrush. So let’s address the chiselled jaw on the elephant in the room. We envy the hero of this shoot, Mr Chris Edwards, more than just a little bit. Let us count the ways. He surfs and still dresses as sharply as anyone in the…
One watch leapt out at me from Oris’ 2017 collection – the Chronoris Date. Not only is the colour scheme and tonneau case shape pretty eye-catching, but it’s also an honest and authentic homage to the timepieces of the ‘70s. In fact the Chronoris name refers to a 1970 design that was the brand’s first chronograph. This reinterpretation isn’t a chrono, but it’s certainly an era appropriate design. Given that I’ve got an incredibly soft spot for this sort of fun and funky design (I’ve been wanting an Omega Memomatic for ages, and – until it died – a compressor cased Bulova Accutron was one of my all time faves) my attraction to the Chronoris is perhaps unsurprising. Personal bias aside, the Chronoris Date is a winner of a watch, with a solid 39mm cushion shaped case with a pleasing radial brushed finish, paired with a domed sapphire crystal, 100m of water resistance and, as we’ve come to expect from Oris, it comes on a range of solid strap options. However, my favourite part of this watch is the dial. Seriously, look at it. The colour scheme of white, grey and black, with orange accents is just hot. I particularly…
Editor’s Note: Bell & Ross released a toned down vintage model this year, the first in their ‘3rd Generation’ vintage armada, with a flatter case and a smaller diameter. It’s a strong piece, with notable improvements to quality like screw-down chronograph pushers, but it’s in a monochromatic rather than colourful mood. Which made us think of last year’s blue-tiful BR126 Aeronavale. Judging by the reaction on social media and the site, it was a watch that changed hearts and minds about B&R’s ability to do interesting things in the vintage field, with a fanatical attention to detail (those brushed applied indices, sigh…) and, honestly, it looks even better a year on. Bell & Ross has never been afraid of colour. And their bold, highly graphical square instrument watches are a natural canvas for creative experimentation. The brand’s more traditional round watches are a little bit of a different story – inherently more conservative; B&R tend to play things safer with their Vintage collection. Which is why the Aeronavale range is such a big old bolt from the blue – and boy, did the risk pay off. While the form of the Vintage BR 126 Aeronavale (and indeed the simpler BR 123) is the same as…