HANDS-ON: The new Longines Flagship Heritage proves that black and gold truly never gets old
While much of the Longines Heritage collection released this year has been brand new pieces, we have also been treated to an update to an existing model, the Longines Flagship Heritage black dial. The previous expression was released last year to rave reviews from the watch world and featured a charming cream-coloured dial, the warmth of which subtly complemented the gold-tone hands and hour markers. With the addition of this new black dial reference, Longines offer a slightly more understated watch that bears all of the same attractive vintage cues. The backstory Inspired by the Longines Flagship watches of the 1950s, quintessential watches of the time that could easily be imagined glinting under the cuffs of dimly lit jazz-bar goers, the modern Longines Flagship Heritage is a distillation of the suave seriousness of a mid-century dress watch. The very first Longines Flagship was released in 1957, a time when the Jules Verne classic Around the World in Eighty Days captured the popular imagination and Elvis Presley dominated the airwaves, and is a period of nostalgia that the contemporary interpretation of the Flagship successfully arrests. The case Featuring a 38.5mm steel case and sitting only 10mm off the wrist, the Longines…
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Editor’s note: Andrew didn’t know it at the time, but LVMH Watch Week in Dubai was the only major watch event in the first half of 2020. What he also didn’t know, but had a strong feeling about, was what the best luxury steel sports watch of the year would be. He picked it early, put his money on the Bulgari Octo Finissimo 100m Stainless Steel as the best performer, and six months later is only feeling more confident about the bet, especially now that it’s offered in both black and blue dialled variants. And do we have news for you. Word is out that after delays due to the pandemic, stock of the steel stunner is starting to hit Bulgari boutiques. Praise be! While in Dubai in January, Andrew spent some time with Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, the mind behind the watch, and discussed the design process of a case with more than 70 different facets and why it is now a real sports watch. The dynamic duo – who open this video with a Gregorian chant of some kind? – also explore other new Bulgari models to be released this year. As for the ‘Satinato’, contact your local Bulgari boutique…
“To be truly elegant one should not be noticed.” So said Beau Brummell, who despite ultimately dying as a syphilitic loon, is still regarded as the biggest single influence on contemporary men’s style. This recognition stems, in part, from Brummell creating the forerunner to the modern suit. But equally significant was his insistence that dressing well meant flying under the radar. “If people turn to look at you on the street,” he said, “you are not well dressed, but either too stiff, too tight, or too fashionable.” The context for this was that Brummell grew up in the late 18th century when men’s fashion was heavily influenced by the pageantry of the French royalty. The prevailing style was flamboyant and fussy — think lace cravats, powdered white wigs and an excess of silk, satin and velvet. What Brummell proposed was a more considered approach founded on structure and understatement. At the heart of it was a clear-eyed rejection of extravagance. Peek down at what you’re wearing right now — the neutral shades, the conspicuous absence of peacock feathers — and you’ll see how Brummell’s sensibility continues to shape the male wardrobe. Yet this less-is-more approach feels particularly relevant right now. The popularity…
In a move to be expected of a brand like Hublot, the provocative wunderkind of the industry has just released a new limited edition in collaboration with Garage Italia and the grandson of the Rake of the Riviera himself, Lapo Elkann. The Big Bang Millennial Pink is based on the Unico 42mm chronograph and features what the brand is calling a gender-neutral soft pastel pink colourway that can be seen throughout the entire watch. The colour Righto, let’s call it. Pastel pink can only be considered ‘gender neutral’ if you factor in Don Johnson’s pastel-masculinising Miami Vice wardrobe. But somehow – through oddly pleasing fleshy tones, and weird colour alchemy – it hits the spot. It’s been considered attractive by both genders in the Time+Tide office. As for “can’t stop looking at it”, that’s me quoting Andrew in the headline. He’s said exactly that multiple times this week. At this point, I’ll throw to some imagery to thicken the plot. Here are some men in an office wearing it. (As well as one further down the page). Do they look wildly effeminate? We think not. First impressions First impressions aside, this does represent a departure. While Hublot has a reputation…