My week with the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin 37mm

A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin 37mm“Authentic” is an often misused and even abused accolade in today’s disposable and instant-service world. Consumers tend to be impressed for brief moments with the speed and functionality of an app, or the savings and convenience that a subscription model lends to their lifestyle. Less and less frequently, consumers are able to appreciate a product offering durability and longevity and, thus, when they do encounter such a thing, simply write it off as frivolous luxury. The A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin 37mm guise initially presents as frivolous luxury indeed. For nearly $20,000, the consumer earns the right to know only the time on a small-ish, seemingly simple dial. Sure, the watch is made of gold, but there isn’t even a matching bracelet to emulate the weight of those dollar bills on your wrist. To really understand the Saxonia Thin, the value of its authentic qualities need to be examined from some arm’s length perspectives. History always lends credibility and it is within the historical perspective that the Lange scores a big win. The end of the Cold War and fall of communism in Eastern Europe gave the world a lot of things, some good and some not. The resurrection…

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6 years ago

The Enabler: How to justify buying another watch (#9. "But it's an investment…")

best gold watches Rolex Daytona RainbowNOTE: We understand that you’ve found a new watch to add to your collection (congratulations!). But rationalising this fact – coupled with the fact that it’ll cost a bucketload of cash – may not always sit well with the less horologically minded. That’s where we come in … Use The Enabler’s advanced levels of sophistry to validate your latest acquisition. Sadly, it’s time for The Enabler to bow out. Over the last few weeks I’ve furnished you with a stack of irrefutable reasons to justify blowing your pay-packet on yet another watch. To testify on your horological behalf we’ve called to the stand everyone from Kanye West to Mahatma Gandhi. And we’ve discussed a succession of tried-and-tested manoeuvres — The Heirloom Defence, The Milestone Celebration, The Cost Per Wear Argument, not to mention the “At Least It’s Not Coke & Hookers” Line Of Attack. Hopefully, your watch collection will already be considerably richer as a result. But I’ve saved one of the most convincing arguments until last, namely the fact that buying the right watch can prove to be a genuine investment. “You’ve just bought a watch that costs the same as a small car!?!” yells your red-faced wife as she eyes your…

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6 years ago

Fun with fundamentals: A watch glossary for the budding enthusiast

Editor’s note: For anyone that isn’t already a watch enthusiast, understanding the multitude of watch-specific terminology can be a bit daunting. In fact, a friend of mine, who is the definition of the horologically uninitiated, recently read one of my articles and said it was akin to hieroglyphics. So, for their benefit, and for anyone else out there that needs to brush up on the basics of watches, we’ve created this easy to understand glossary. Enjoy.  Case The modular case of the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01. The case is the exterior of the watch. It can be made from a range of high-tech or precious materials, but steel is most common. Typically, measurements are provided as the diameter, excluding the crown. Bezel The blue ceramic bezel of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300. The bezel is the ring that surrounds the dial of the watch (on the outside), and typically plays a role in attaching the crystal to the watch. If the dial is surrounded by a separate internal ring, that is often referred to as a chapter ring. Strap Nomos on a Time+Tide strap. The strap is a material band that attaches the wristwatch to the wrist. These are…

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6 years ago

These were the 3 best Jaquet Droz watches of 2019

As is the case with every other year in recent times, 2019 was a very, very good one for the inimitable Swiss watchmaker Jaquet Droz. Not only did we see the marque, which has been around since 1738, create their first ever Grande Seconde Chronograph, we also saw a great new addition to their Grande Seconde Skelet-One timepiece in a innovative material. Anyway, without wanting to give it all away, here are the three best Jaquet Droz watches of 2019: JAQUET DROZ GRANDE SECONDE CHRONOGRAPH Known as the master of automatons, Jaquet Droz lends its name to an elegant series of watches with an identifiable aesthetic. This is the first chronograph in the Grande Seconde collection and it is long overdue. This watch boasts an exquisitely balanced dial, which employs a variety of scales and fonts to surprising effect (note the mixture of Roman and Arabic numerals on the time dial). Controlled by a mono-pusher crown at 4 o’clock, this is a complicated piece with a simple heart. Ref No: J007830240 / Case size: 43mm / Case material: Steel / Movement: 26MR / Price: $26,000 JAQUET DROZ GRANDE SECONDE DUAL TIME BLACK ENAMEL If you like to travel with the…

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6 years ago

Cool as p**k: The dive watch that looks like a hockey puck

Halios Puck II reviewEditor’s note: Making a unique and interesting timepiece is always a hard task, especially if you’re a nascent watchmaker that doesn’t have anywhere near as many runs on the board as the stalwarts of the industry. What’s harder, still, is making an idiosyncratic timepiece that also needs to meet the demanding rigours of a fit-for-purpose dive watch. But that’s exactly what independent Canadian microbrand Halios did when they unveiled the Puck II way back in 2017. We were fortunate enough to go hands-on with the overtly round dive watch upon its unveiling, and these were our initial impressions: Over the years, I’ve worn many (many) watches for review purposes, and to be honest it’s rare that I’m still thinking about that watch months or years after the fact. The Puck, from Canadian microbrand Halios, is one of the rare exceptions. I wrote up the DLC version of the original Puck over on Hodinkee, way back in 2013 and it’s been stuck in my head ever since. So when I noticed some early renders of the Puck II on Instagram last year, I immediately contacted Jason Lim, founder of Halios, to get my hands on it ASAP (for purely impartial review purposes, obvs). Fast forward…

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6 years ago

Two time zones and twice the fun: 5 of our favourite GMT watches

Few complications you’ll find on a wristwatch can claim to have more real-world practicality than a wristwatch equipped with a GMT complication. The ability to track two different time zones simultaneously is invaluable for a great many people in a great many different professions. With all that in mind, we thought we’d share with you five of the best GMT watches you can buy right now: GRAND SEIKO SBGN009 Released to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the first quartz watch, the SBGN009’s luscious blue dial has the kind of repeating pattern in the background that very few brands can pull off without it looking chintzy. Cue Grand Seiko, whose reputation for remarkable dial designs is now well entrenched. The colour-matched seconds hand, GMT hand, logo, and chapter ring provide true chromatic harmony with the two shades of blue on show. Limited to 2,019 pieces. Ref No: SBGN009 / Case size: 40mm / Case material: Steel / Movement: 9F86 / Price: $4000 MONTA ATLAS When you make the decision to purchase a travel watch for your next adventure, one thing that can offer peace of mind is an affordable price point, just in case it is misplaced. Monta play safely within…

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6 years ago

RECOMMENDED READING: Is this man the King of Cartier?

Harry Fane is one of the world’s foremost experts in Cartier, not just watches but the entire gamut of objets d’art that have been produced by the brand for more than 150 years. He cites his specific interest in the brand as being the golden age of the luxury maison from a creative standpoint, regarded as falling between 1919 and 1939, when some of the most important designs from the brand were developed. One of the reasons for Mr Fane’s fascination? A part of it boils down to the ambition to make the quotidian more beautiful. “Cartier had a great interest in making jewelled objects: Louis Cartier’s idea was to make a jewel into a utilitarian object and a utilitarian object into a jewel.” In an interview with the well-regarded vintage dealer A Collected Man, Harry Fane discusses his obsession with the manufacturer, and why his enthusiasm has failed to wane. Beyond his palpable passion for Cartier, Mr Fane’s comments are also peppered with fascinating facts about the brand, such as there being only 1803 Tank watches made by Cartier Paris between 1919 and 1960. You can read the full interview right here.

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6 years ago

OPINION: Why playing sport with your watch on is a daft idea

OK, let’s get something out of the way first, before I posit my argument and before the keyboard warriors have a chance to pipe up — I am not suggesting that wearing a Fitbit, Garmin, Apple Watch or whatever other fitness accessory you choose to wear while playing sport is a bad idea. No, I’m talking about mechanical timepieces, actual watches that have movements that don’t require software updates every fortnight, battery charges or a Bluetooth connection. Now, with that little disclaimer out of the way, let’s start with a short story about what happened to my beloved Longines HydroConquest last week on the way home from work. As I do most days, I was riding my humble push bike down one of Richmond’s main arterials, Swan Street. It had been a good day, and as a result I had what can best be described as a bit of pep in my step or, er, pedal. Yes, the watts per kilo stats were good — I was on the charge. My speed climbed to an indicated 45km/h — I was making killer time. And then it happened. I hit a manhole cover with such ferocity that my whole body was literally shaken to…

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6 years ago

James' 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection

fantasy watch collectionIt is with a palpable sense of frustration that I must start my 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection with a pretty serious caveat — I had started writing this list before the now infamous Rolex price hike of 2020. As a result, I will be utilising the Big Crown’s 2019 prices so as to keep within the, albeit fictional, budgetary constraints. Of course there are watches from other makes in my fantasy list but, thankfully, the other watches haven’t had their RRPs jacked … yet. So, without further ado, here is my dream line-up of timepieces from the final year of the decade: Rolex GMT-Master II Ref.126710BLNR Yes, OK, quit your groaning, I know it’s a very predictable choice … and I just don’t care. Rolex’s 2019 re-introduction of the much-loved BLNR or “Batman” GMT-Master II, now on a jubilee bracelet and sporting the Calibre 3285 movement, may not have been the most inspired release, but I still utterly adore it. The profound heritage of Rolex’s GMT-Master and GMT-Master II is undeniable, and this latest iteration continues to prove why the model line-up is the best GMT-equipped timepiece on the market … in my opinion. In fact, the only thing I…

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6 years ago

Do you need a Dan Henry in your collection?

Dan Henry watch collectionA lot of things have been said about Dan Henry timepieces – both good and bad. But to understand the watchmaker, we first need to understand the man behind the brand. Dan Henry may well be one of the most prolific vintage watch collectors on the planet, and his personal hoard of timepieces stretches well past a thousand (it’s actually closer to 1600). Among the cornucopia of watches in Henry’s collection, you’ll find everything from humble vintage Seikos to some of the rarest and most desirable vintage Rolex watches in existence. Henry credits his gargantuan assemblage of timepieces to two things — being an avid collector of watches from a very early age, and his fascination with mechanically autonomous objects that could function without an external power source … like a watch with an automatic movement. For years, Henry bought and sold watches in his home town of São Paulo, Brazil, and when the internet became a thing in the late ’90s, he started selling timepieces via a weekly online mailing list. His profile grew rapidly in the horological hemisphere, thanks largely to his social media pages and his website, timeline.watch, which chronicles vintage watches. So, why does one of the…

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6 years ago