HANDS-ON: The Omega Speedmaster Apollo XVII – a tribute to the last man on the moon
The relationship between Omega and space is special. Central to this relationship, of course, is the Speedmaster Professional, a phenomenally popular watch thanks in no small part to the cool-by-association links with NASA and the American space program. Naturally it’s something that Omega hasn’t been shy about capitalising on (even though former President Stephen Urquhart had his reservations), with countless space-themed ad campaigns and limited editions throughout the years. Limited edition Speedmasters are a funny thing: you can guarantee that every year or so Omega will celebrate a mission anniversary, or something similar, and this regularity sometimes makes it hard to get excited about the original premise – this watch helped man land on the moon. The Speedmaster Apollo XVII, a 42mm model available in gold or steel and celebrating the 45th anniversary of that mission (Omega’s third LE celebrating the Apollo XVII) is a little different. Partially, this is because Apollo XVII was the last mission where a man walked on the moon, but more significantly it’s because that man, Captain Eugene ‘Gene’ Cernan, passed away on the 16th of January this year, aged 82. This legacy adds an incredible nostalgia to the watch. This Speedy, with its mission patch inspired…
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Not so long ago, the TAG Heuer Carrera was one of the watch world’s most easily recognised chronographs. Now, it’s every kind of watch imaginable. It’s time-only, it’s a Connected watch, it’s a tourbillon; you name it, there’s a Carrera variant. Hell, I’m wearing a Carrera today and it’s a removable time-only module that I’ve fitted onto a pair of – themselves interchangeable – titanium lugs and a leather bracelet that more often carries the Connected Modular 45 around. No matter where you stand on the rapid recent evolution, the name does not mean what it used to. And the modern Carrera vehicle, if you will, is one made for thoroughly modern times. But is there a risk in overloading the name and making it less special? Just over a year ago David Chalmers asked TAG Heuer CEO, Jean-Claude Biver, just that. For more of Jean-Claude Biver in action, watch this and this. 
Rado’s HyperChrome Captain Cook has made waves this year, mostly due to the nearly pitch perfect 37mm reissue. And while there’s a lot to like about that watch, I suspect that the comparatively petite case size will be a deal-breaker for some people. But that’s OK because Rado has covered their bases by releasing a contemporarily sized 45mm version. It’s not just the case size that’s impressive, but also the construction – with ceramic bezel, hardened titanium case construction and a solid 80 hours of power reserve. Rado Hyperchrome Captain Cook 45mm Australian pricing Rado Hyperchrome Captain Cook 45mm, $3175
It’s fair to say that the watch industry isn’t renowned for a culture of transparency, with its sometimes confusing mix of companies, parent companies, and suppliers. Add to the equation a hefty dose of marketing invested in the concept ‘in-house’ and the waters become even murkier. The reality is that fully vertical watchmakers are very rare indeed, with most brands making use of third parties, be that in design or production. This (paywalled) Financial Times article investigates ‘secret watchmakers’, who operate at the higher end of horology – often established watchmakers in their own right, who moonlight for other brands on the side. And while some brands are becoming more public about their external partners, its not the norm. Essential reading if you’re interested in parting the smoke and seeing through the mirrors.
Editor’s Note: Simple vintage looks, rich tones, a brushed dial and a cinnamon suede strap to die for, all for a very reasonable price. The Longines Heritage 1945 – it’s the perfect watch for a crisp winter’s day. One of the highlights on our Baselworld calendar is seeing what heritage re-release Longines has cooked up, and whoo boy, have they pulled out all the stops in 2017 or what. You’re looking at the Heritage 1945, an absolutely on point interpretation of a mid-century dress watch. Based on a 1945 design called the Calatrava by collectors, this watch does everything right. Funnily enough it’s the exact watch that Sunflowerman illustrated as part of the Watercolour Watch project back in 2015. The 40mm steel case is simple, and not overly fussy, with a flat bezel just the right width and a slender-yet-functional crown. The mid-tan nubuck strap with single line of reinforcing stitching in contrasting thread walks a perfectly straight line between dress and casual. The real star is the dial. For such a minimal layout, Longines has packed it full of sexy detail. First of all there’s the vintage velvet effect of the brushed copper-tone convex dial, then there’s the alternating steel-tone…
To be honest, when I first saw Grand Seiko’s contemporary-looking new modular ceramic Spring Drives, I was on the fence. I didn’t expect it, and wasn’t sure what to think. Of course the quality and technical precision were very much in evidence, but the aesthetics were well outside the norm for the brand. But over time the slick looks grew on me – Grand Seiko’s trademark crisp lines look great in black ceramic, and the sporty style was well-suited to the Spring Drive Chrono. So in the lead up to Basel this year, I was looking forward to seeing where they’d take the nascent collection, and I was not disappointed. It’s fair to say the blue and gold limited edition requires a somewhat outgoing personality to pull off on a daily basis; this black version, while not quite stealthy given the 46.4mm case, is far more restrained on the wrist. I’d go so far as to say this watch has a certain menace about it. The deep black colour, titanium and black ceramic case and bracelet, and busy dial all combine to make it look like it’s out of this world, in the same way that concept cars and next-generation fighter…
We’ve got a surprisingly complex relationship with date windows in the Time+Tide office. And not just because we’ve been known to forget to set them on occasion. No, every time we review a vintage reissue we can be assured that we’ll have a host of comments on various social media platforms that read something like this: “Love the design, but they RUINED it with that ugly date window.” I understand this reaction, and to be fair there are plenty of sloppily designed date windows out there. But ruining a watch? I’m not so sure. A few years ago we were interviewing Walter Von Känel, CEO of Longines, and we mentioned in passing that his heritage collections received near-universal praise, except for the fact that they almost invariably included a date. We asked why he put a date in. To my recollection (it’s a few years ago now), Mr Von Känel laughed and said that he did it because most people wanted dates on watches. He’s got a point. I suspect that most people wouldn’t be able to tell you off the top of their heads what today’s date is. Sure, there’s a profusion of screens in our lives that carry this…
Editor’s Note: Way back at the start of this year, Justin put together a series of ‘best of’ lists covering off some of 2016’s finest timepieces – watches that offered maximum return for minimal investment. Now, as we hurtle head-first into that golden period in Australia known as EOFY (end of financial year), we start thinking about tax returns, bonuses and bargains. Sure, you could use this (hopeful) windfall to do the prudent thing and pay the bills – or you could buy a watch. So we thought now was the perfect time to revisit these lists in the form of one mega-smorgasbord list of 44 watches to whet your appetite. 8 watches under $1000 Seiko Turtle Reissue SRPA21K OK, so this guy’s a total no-brainer – a reissue of Seiko’s classic (and now quite collectable) 6309 series day-date divers. The originals were in production from roughly 1976 to ’88, and this past year saw countless fans shouting “Shut up and take my money” as the numerous variants of the Turtle reissue sold out, time and time again. The line includes something for everyone, including a gilt-dial variant, all black, all blue, a very cool grey made-for-the-Thailand-market Zimbe Turtle, and of course…