INTERVIEW: Baume & Mercier’s Alexandre Peraldi on the past and present of the Clifton
We’ve spent a fair amount of digital ink this week talking about Baume & Mercier’s Clifton collection, and how it’s such a neat link to the Geneva-based brand’s heritage. So we thought it was only appropriate to explore this history, and how they’ve honoured it, in a little more detail. And who better to explore it with than Alexandre Peraldi, Baume & Mercier’s Design and Product Director. Time+Tide: Looking at the watch that inspires today’s Clifton collection, the resemblance is immediately obvious. Can you tell us what elements you kept, and what you changed? Alexandre Peraldi: Of course, we tried to retain as many elements from the original, with updates to meet today’s quality standards. The double bevel on the bezel and caseband is the aesthetic signature of this model, and it allows the profile to remain slim, despite the relatively thick movement. The bevelled edge continues from the caseband to the tips of the lugs, creating a single line, and providing perfect visual unity from strap to baseband. And the strong graphic appeal of the Arabic numerals is also very important, and clearly speaks to the history of our brand. T+T: And were there any concessions you had to make? AP:…
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In terms surprises, at Christmas or at any other time, Omega releasing a new Speedmaster does not rank (sorry Omegamaniacs). In the last few years we’ve seen Speedies offered in every colour and design under the sun. That said, their latest, the in-no-way-economically named Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph Master Chronometer is, in fact, pretty eye-opening, mouth-watering and wallet-tempting. It’s hot, not just because of the blue colourway, or the new Liquidmetal bezel insert, but also thanks to the new movement powering it. The Caliber 9904 is Master Chronometer certified, and adds a moonphase to the mix. It’s a genius move to bring this astronomical complication to a Speedy, and the execution of this one is particularly nice – the moon is like a tiny reproduction of a NASA photograph, and if you look closely (like through a loupe closely), you can see a minuscule footprint on the moon. Who should you buy this for: Buy this for someone you REALLY love, because it’s a classic with a timeless twist. What’s the damage: Under $14k Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph Master Chronometer Australian Pricing Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph Master Chronometer, $13,625
The first post on Time+Tide went live on the 20th of March, 2014, and in the subsequent 33 months we’ve had a blast publishing news, reviews and all the latest and greatest from the world of watches. We’re excited to announce that this edition of the Wind Down marks a significant milestone – it’s our 1000th post! Cue champagne, doves and fireworks! Though not all at once, as that sounds like a serious OH&S/animal cruelty issue. Thanks to everyone who’s supported us over the last 1000, we couldn’t have done it without you! I suspect it won’t take us quite as long to hit the big 2k. What happened? We posted some of our favourite watch photos of 2106 – Jason Reekie’s luscious shots of the lovely Hublot Classic Fusion Racing Grey. Seriously, how hot is this watch? We got flags! While these three strips of fabric don’t make any real difference to our day-to-day, it does make us feel a little more real, and certainly more piratical. What mattered? Rumours and scandal continued to swirl around the Swiss watch industry, with the latest being the news emerging that Switzerland has bought back 3.3 billion Swiss francs’ worth of their luxury timepieces.…
Back in 2014, Swatch made waves with the original Sistem51, an innovative and affordable robot-assembled automatic watch. Much like the original Swatch, the Sistem51 was hailed as revolutionary, and touted as radically democratising the Swiss mechanical. While the sub-$200 timepiece was never going to threaten Omega’s market share (for example), it nonetheless featured some impressive technical features – like the single central screw holding the whole affair together, the anti-magnetic construction and 90 hours of power reserve. The initial Sistem51 came in the distinctive jellybean style case of the classic Swatch. Plastic, and fantastic. Earlier this year the Sistem51 got an upgrade to the Irony collection – made from far more durable (and a tad more grown-up) stainless steel. The polished case looks great, and reminds me of Marc Newson’s Biomorphism. The caseback is still clear, showing off the printed movements and peripheral rotor. The best thing though, is the dial. Swatch has released a bunch of new designs, from the fancy (and appropriately named) Tux, through to the very ‘flieger’ stylings of the Arrow. However we opted to check out the vibrant blue dial of the Boreal (which continues the vague astronomical themes of the original release), and the neat…
The promo video for the Piaget Polo S may not feature Santa prancing around on rooftops trying to fit his ample girth into chimney tops, but it does feature Ryan Reynolds up there, and boy, is he busy. The idea: there’s a rampant polo ball whizzing through the skies and only he can catch it (which, not to give it away, he does). It’s Piaget’s way of introducing their ‘game changer’ watch, a steel version of the Polo model that was first introduced in 1979. The launch in New York created one of the ‘moments’ of the year, and showed the modern face of high-end horology, which is more and more about meeting the market, while still bringing the superior finishing and detail you’d expect from a brand as prestigious as Piaget. Who should you buy this for: A connoisseur, because Piaget’s place at the very highest echelons of watchmaking is unquestioned. What’s the damage: Under $16k Piaget Polo S Australian Pricing The Piaget Polo S, $15,600
Firstly, let’s not delude ourselves: your timepiece is going to impress more men than women. That’s a given. Unless of course it’s awful. If that’s the case, you’ll be slaying precisely no one – and also, how did you find your way to Time+Tide? However, there are a few ways you can maximise your chances of making an impression on the fairer sex with your choice of wristwear, at least a little. Listen carefully. Step 1: Choose something less obvious Less obvious than what? Less obvious than the one you’re most likely to choose, obviously. Because even though that un-aerodynamic chunk of metal on your wrist never fails to dazzle your mates and colleagues, it’s unwise to assume it’ll have a similar effect on the ladies. In the same way that we go for personality and intelligence over model-perfect looks in a life partner, we appreciate a watch that’s less in-your-face, more subtle, quietly capable. A dark horse rather than a show pony. Think along the lines of a more left-field brand, a vintage treasure or perhaps something customised. Step 2: Choose something totally obvious Don’t look at me like that. Yes, it’s confusing but get used to it, because it’s a woman’s prerogative…
What’s that, Rudolph? You’re worried about Santa being on time this Christmas? Understandable. Maybe get him one of these, then. This Planet Ocean Chrono is large and in charge – with massive wrist presence that will be a huge help for keeping an eye on his forthcoming deadlines. Plus, while steel versions of this watch require some heavy lifting, the titanium case of this model significantly cuts down the weight, meaning less effort for you and the rest of the reindeer. Who should you buy this for: If not Santa, then certainly someone sizeable. This has no place on a spindly forearm – which rules it out for Frosty the Snowman. What’s the damage: Under $13k Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Master Chronometer Chronograph 45.5mm titanium Australian pricing The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Master Chronometer Chronograph 45.5mm in titanium on rubber strap, $12,900.
“I’m dreaming of a white Christmas…” and also of this distinctly unexpected white-dialled Panerai we saw unveiled at SIHH right at the beginning of the year. It managed to charm, inveigle and confound the team, whose responses ranged the gamut of eye-based expressions, from a heart-eye emoji all the way up to a slightly squinty suspicion. The fact is, while we associate the Italian brand with the warm dark tones of single malt whisky and fine tobacco, this lighter, brighter take on the Radiomir is still 100 per cent Panerai. Who should you buy for: The Paneristi who already has every dark-dialled Panerai in the book. What’s the damage: Under $15k Panerai PAM 655 Radiomir 1940 3 Days Automatic Acciaio Australian pricing Panerai PAM 655 in steel, $13,600
We often wax lyrical about our love affair with Montblanc’s watches, but we’ve also got a soft spot for their famous writing instruments. We were lucky enough to come face-to-face with a selection of their absolute finest recently. It’s not often these golden, gem-encrusted rockstars of the written word, in their lavish presentation boxes even make it to our fair shores, but when they do, it’s almost (we said almost) enough to make you throw your iPhone, tablet and computer out the window and go back to pen and ink. Here’s a glimpse at our favourites. Limited Edition F.D. Roosevelt America’s Signatures for Freedom A stately writing instrument if ever there was one, this fountain pen in blue lacquer, princess cut diamonds and 750 solid gold fittings commemorates Franklin Delano Roosevelt, who served as 32nd President of the United States from 1933 until he passed away in 1945. The laurel leaf pattern on the cone is an homage to the logo of the United Nations, founded by FDR in 1942, while its limited run of 50 pieces references the number of states in America.
RRP $46,700 Limited Edition Prince Rainier III With a production of 81 – to honour the age of…