10 great chronographs under $10K
Chronographs are both one of the most popular complications on a wristwatch, as well as one of the most challenging to produce. That said, you don’t have to take out a bank loan to have a quality chronograph in your watch, so we’ve compiled a list of 10 great chronographs under $10K. BALTIC BICOMPAX 001 SLATE GREY Like many of the watch world’s latest start-ups, French brand Baltic had their break on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter, raising more than €500,000 and offering customers the choice of two vintage-inspired models – a time-only and a dual register chronograph. Inspired by the step-case designs of the 1940s, the BICOMPAX 001 follows the lines and codes of the vintage school of watchmaking. Case size 38mm, Case material Steel, Movement Seagull ST1901, Price €541 LONGINES CONQUEST V.H.P. CHRONOGRAPH Longines’ achievements in quartz date back to 1954, when their first quartz mechanism set a precision record at the Neuchâtel Observatory. The latest evolution of the V.H.P. (Very High Precision) collection combines precision with the Conquest Chronograph’s instantly recognisable sportiness. It is accurate to an extraordinary +/- 5 seconds a year, and equipped with a Gear Position Detection system that resets the hands in the event of…
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Normally in these hands-on reviews I leave the sticky question of the price until the end. But this time around I’m putting it front and centre. This Montblanc Heritage Automatic has an Australian RRP of $3410. And for that amount of coin, you get a lot of watch. The steel case is well-sized — 40mm across and 11.65mm high, with 20mm lugs packing a really nice grey croc strap with a slight sfumato effect. The lines of this case err, as the heritage name would suggest, towards the more classic in style. Fairly simple construction, a mirror polish, and pleasing, swooping lugs. The movement is a third-party number, reliable, but nothing too exciting, which is why the brand has opted to hide it away behind a nicely engraved picture of the Montblanc, née Minerva, facility in Villeret. It’s worth noting that the caseback is about as close as this watch got to that building, which is strictly the domain of their top-tier pieces — this watch was assembled in the brand’s Le Locle facility. The dial, though, that’s something else. The salmon colour is on-trend for 2019, and very much the right choice for this three-handed heritage offering. Really, though,…
Editor’s note: These days, Girard-Perregaux might be best known for their sporty Laureato line, but they have a rich tradition in dressier pieces, which sit in their 1966 collection. This world timer, the Girard-Perregaux 1966 WW.TC, is a case in point — an excellent, dressier take on a complication that traditionally leans to the busier side of life. Read on for the review … Girard-Perregaux is one of Swiss watchmaking’s best-kept secrets. The La Chaux-de-Fonds based brand offers a complete — and compelling — package, fine pedigree, and a catalogue that ranges from the highest of high horology through to some more accessible (yet still exceptional) pieces. But, for whatever reason, GP has long lacked the sort of name recognition they deserve, and which is enjoyed by some of their Helvetican siblings. But it feels like that’s on the cusp of change. Girard-Perregaux is back at the SIHH, with a particularly strong and focused collection. And while the Laureato is their shining star, there are plenty of other worthy offerings in the catalogue. Take, for example, the 1966 WW.TC in steel. The 1966 collection is GP’s clean, classic — and, dare we say it, conservative — collection, and this is the first…
When most watch collectors hear the word quartz they think cheap, mass-produced and soulless. If a watch isn’t mechanical, it isn’t worth talking about, thinking about, and definitely not buying, which are sentiments I broadly agree with. As I wrote here, mechanical watches have a combination of nostalgic charm and independent reliability that I love alongside thousands of watch enthusiasts around the world. So why then did I buy a quartz watch that costs the same as some mechanical Swiss watches? Let me explain why I bought the Grand Seiko SBGN007, and how I feel about the purchase six months later. I’ll start by explaining that when I started collecting watches, I collected vintage Seiko. This is a great way to get started in the hobby, as you don’t have to spend a lot of money to experience a bunch of different watches. For someone starting their collection, this is the perfect scenario. I think starting out this way also stops you from getting any notions that the only good watches are made in a landlocked country in Europe and cost $10,000. It makes you appreciate watches that aren’t necessarily luxury, and how different brands approach watchmaking in a way…
Editor’s note: This year, the Bulgari watch department celebrated its fifth year in a row of record-breaking watches with the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic. While some in the watch industry are still coming to terms with the horological success of a brand with roots in jewellery, Bulgari have actually been making watches since 1975. A couple of years ago, Andrew had the opportunity to see the first ever watch from the brand, the Bulgari Roma, when it was on display at the Tokyo National Museum. He captured his impressions at the time, and told the legend of why it was first produced. Surrounded by dazzling diamonds and gemstones is a digital wristwatch, on a frayed woven rope strap. With its simple LCD display in a yellow gold case, the watch looks a little out of place amid the delicate, glittering finery that surrounds it. But this is the Art of Bulgari exhibition, which celebrated 130 years of the brand at the Tokyo National Museum. And this watch — the Bulgari Roma — is very important to the Italian jewellery house. It’s the brand’s first ever wristwatch, and the tale behind its genesis and their almost accidental entry into the world of…
There are a lot of great podcasts out there on the world of watches, but the guys over at Worn & Wound do a particularly good job. One of the things they are great at is finding interesting people to speak with, which they did when they interviewed Tim Stracke, the C0-CEO and Founder of Chrono24, an online watch marketplace. Chrono24 has been growing significantly over the last few years, and in 2018 the total value of transactions that originated from the site increased by 30 per cent to €1.3 billion. The platform is also leveraging the huge amount of data it collects on watch buyers, giving it unique insights into the second-hand watch market that informs its growth. If you’re interested in the second-hand watch market, this episode from Worn & Wound is a must-listen for a fascinating perspective from a man with his finger on the pulse, as well as some hints on how he sees the market changing in coming years.
Next month, Sotheby’s Australia are hosting their Important Jewels Auction in Melbourne, with a catalogue that includes a small collection of watches. The focus of the offering is obviously heavily on jewellery, however it is great to see a large local auction house include a few interesting watches, too. After passing the catalogue around the office this morning, there are a couple of standout pieces that were T+T team favourites. Felix (Editor) – HEUER AUTAVIA AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH “JO SIFFERT” The classic, cushiony case and panda dial with just the right amount of pop. The motor sports legacy doesn’t hurt either. Emma (Marketing) – CARTIER SANTOS 100 REF 2656 I’m loving this Santos’ bold beauty for its dramatic contrasts of gold, steel and oxblood red — it’s a striking variation of a Cartier icon. Nick (Writer) – CARTIER TANK AMERICAINE REF 2483 Cartier are known for their timeless design language, but the Tank Americane is a standout for me. Yellow gold and dress watches go together like vermouth and gin.
Collecting watches is a lot of fun. At least, it should be. If it ever stops being fun, I’d assume that’s because you got into it for the wrong reasons (to make a quick buck, most likely). If you’re about to take the plunge into this massively rewarding hobby, but you’re doing so because you think it will make you rich, don’t. If you started (or are about to start) collecting watches because you love them, welcome to the club. Everyone’s watch journey is different. They can depend on means and opportunities, or tastes and trends, or any number of factors that make your story your own. One thing is highly likely, though. You will make mistakes, missteps, and about-turns as you tread this path. Sometimes these errors in judgement are far from that at the time. It’s very possible that certain watches will instantly become an itch you just have to scratch, and scratch it you should (even if you feel like a fool for it a couple of years down the line). I’m afraid we can’t help you avoid that, but we do have a little bit of advice regarding some common questions we’ve been hearing recently: How…
Much has been written about the growth of the pre-owned watch market in recent years, but just how long has this been happening, and will watches hold their value during a recession? With consecutive seasons of watch auctions breaking all-time records, luxury conglomerate Richemont spending an estimated €200m to acquire second-hand dealer Watchfinder & Co just over 12 months ago, and brands such as Audemars Piguet announcing their intention to sell their own pre-owned watches, there is a current land-grab for control over the lucrative pre-owned market. Beyond specific pre-owned markets, something is happening in the retail watch market too, which Sandra discussed in her frustration at the combination of waitlists and the premium over retail for certain models. In 2019, stainless steel is literally worth more than its weight in gold. But the phenomenon of waitlists feels recent in the watch collecting world, with some Rolex professional models being relatively easy to buy at retail only a half-decade ago. In actual fact, this uptick in the pre-owned market began a lot longer ago, with the FHH Journal observing strong auction results in 2008. That’s right, if you wanted evidence that the watch market behaves a little differently, this article…
Affordability is a difficult thing to pin down. What is easily affordable for one person may be eternally out of reach for another. So, to avoid making too many assumptions, this article will include five watches that each feature in a different price bracket. These are picks for five of the best affordable dress watches in their respective categories. Under $1000, the Hamilton Ardmore $650 AUD There’s been a rumour abounding for years that Richard Gere wears a Hamilton Ardmore. While the veracity of that claim is hard to pin down, it certainly wouldn’t look out of place on his wrist. While some would classify the Ardmore as a woman’s watch due to its relatively petite dimensions, it has been carried off with aplomb by many a man before, so it seems unisex would be a fairer description. What’s great about this watch is that it does pretty much everything you could ask of a Deco-inspired timepiece made in the modern world. Its quartz movement is ideally hassle-free, while the sub-dial seconds hand is small enough for a tick rather than an automatic sweep not to matter. The dial is clean and has its roots in the early part of the…