SPOTTED! By AG: Dispatch 14, September 2018 – some cars, more watches
September was very much a mix of cars and watches, which understandably go hand in hand. The strongest commonality between the two hobbies? The collectors — and their unwavering passion. To kick off September, I made my way down to the German Auto Show 2018, put on by the Volkswagen Club of Victoria. I know enough ‘car people’ to expect to see some nice watches, and this event was no exception. A piece that jumped out amongst the vintage Porsches and VWs was a 2018 Rolex GMT-Master II in two-tone Oystersteel and Everose gold (reference 126711CHNR). This piece was an instant favourite of mine, back when I saw it in Basel earlier this year. The warm rose gold works incredibly well with the steel, and it’s the kind of watch that photos cannot do justice — you need to see it in person. Later in the month, I found myself getting stuck in to another car event, which also delivered some interesting timepieces. I bumped into Daniel, who was sporting his prized vintage Omega Speedmaster Mark II Racing Dial. Being a car guy, Dan is naturally drawn to vintage chronographs, and the colourful racing dial on this Speedy was the icing on the…
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Editor’s note: What is it about an all-black watch that really gets the heart racing? I mean, it’s a neutral colour, like white, silver, or grey, yet just by adding a heavy dose of toner, an entire watch can be transformed. Case (and dial, and strap) in point, the black ceramic Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm. A luxury sports watch made, well, sportier. Since its surprise reveal a little over a year ago, the Laureato has become an increasingly significant player in the luxury sports category, thanks to its crowd-pleasing good looks and impressive mechanics. SIHH 2018 showed us that the Laureato is an increasingly important part of GP’s lineup too, as handsome new chronograph variants dominated their latest batch novelties. But I was particularly taken by this black ceramic-on-rubber offering. Announced late last year, to me this Laureato really lives up to its sporty pedigree, thanks to its hard-wearing 42mm lightweight ceramic construction and rubber strap. Now, typically I’d advocate for the bracelet variant, especially on a integrated case style like this, but here I think the rubber really works. It makes the Laureato far more casual, and really wearer-friendly, and better honours the casual spirit of the design. While the bracelet…
Tantalum, what’s that, I hear you say. Well, allow me to explain. Tantalum is a highly corrosion-resistant bluish-grey metal with an extreme hardness and high boiling point. Which are the exact qualities you want in a dive watch, but also qualities that make Tantalum incredibly difficult to work with – and the reason why the material is not often seen in the watch industry. However, when Omega first released the Seamaster Diver 300M in 1993, their flagship model was a tri-coloured chronograph (ref 2296.80) that included a case made from titanium, tantalum, and rose gold. Twenty-five years later, the combination is back, only now it’s without the chronograph, and it features a host of modern updates. At quick glance, the limited edition looks quite similar to its regular collection siblings. But there’s a lot more going on here than first meets the eye. First of all, and most obviously, the bezel insert is 18k Sedna gold, with a frosted finish that tones things down and sets the stage for the muted grey titanium dial – with its laser-engraved wave pattern raised rather than etched into its darkened surface. There’s also no date, but there is a set of familiar 18k…
A few weeks ago I travelled to Rome to check out the Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting, a GMT not like any other. And in between the first-look video, horse racing and spectacular rooftop launches, we thought we’d do some sightseeing around Rome and put the V.H.P. GMT through its paces as a travel watch. Now, of all the ‘genres’ of watches, the travel watch is one of the most subjective. There’s no handy ISO standard to hold it against, nor is there a clearly established design tradition. There’s only subjective taste. With that little caveat out of the way, I’d be quite comfortable putting my money where my mouth is and saying that this Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT Flash Setting is a near-perfect travel watch for the 21st century. Why? Well, first of all, it looks good. It’s stylistically versatile — important if you’re on the road with one watch and need it to cover a range of sartorial duties. It’s also not too flashy. I don’t know about you, but I don’t want to be traipsing strange corners of the globe, in unfamiliar places where I don’t speak the language, in a watch that might stand out…
Story in a second: The much-loved diver just got a serious makeover. Omega’s Seamaster Professional 300M is a true legend of the watch world, a watch that will be eternally associated with Bond – specifically Pierce Brosnan, the Bond who brought the franchise out of the wilderness, and once again into the spotlight. Like I said – legendary. And, as everyone knows, you don’t mess with legends. So I can only imagine that the pressure must have been high in the Omega product department in the lead up to the 25th anniversary makeover of the line, released earlier this year. And, broadly speaking, the refresh is restrained and balanced, providing upgrades where needed, but otherwise keeping the key elements right where they are. The case One of the most heated reactions to the ‘new’ Seamaster Professional was the size increase. Though really, it’s pretty marginal: 42mm, up from 41. Personally, I think the difference is minor and subtle, in keeping with what people who are after a contemporary daily dive watch want. However, while the cut-and-dry specs increase is the most obvious change to the case, it’s far from the only one. The helium release valve (that extra crown at 10…
Editor’s note: After the seemingly despised date window, one of the hottest of hot-button topics in the world of watches is bezel screws. If you say “I really hate it when the bezel screws on a watch aren’t lined up” out loud, it sounds a little ridiculous, but when you really, really care about something, the details all make the difference. But should those screws be aligned? And are they even screws? Read on … “Such a shame they don’t take the time to align their screws. I wouldn’t buy one purely because of this.” Every time we post a picture of a watch with exposed bezel screws (mostly Hublot or Bell & Ross) we get a variation of this comment. And I’m well and truly over it. While many brands use exposed screws on bezels, the most commonly cited example is that of the iconic Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet. It’s certainly what all the commenters on our social feeds reference when they’re lambasting other brands for their inability to align screws. But you know the funny thing? The screws on the AP’s bezels aren’t screws. In fact, they’re threaded nuts which fit neatly and immovably into the perfectly…
Since their dramatic reboot in 2012, Tudor has continually upped the game. From the original Black Bay, to the development of in-house movements, new case materials, and complications like the chronograph, every year brings a new surprise. Based on this track record, I’m always excited to see what Tudor will do next with the Black Bay, not least because of the element of brinkmanship at play. Well, this year Tudor outdid themselves once again with the Heritage Black Bay GMT. It’s a hot watch. Not just because of its obvious good looks — I mean, just look at that bezel — it’s also an extremely high-quality offering, which can be said for all Tudor’s pieces, and it’s also technically impressive, with its brand new ‘true’ GMT. Really, it’s the complete package. Classic style, quality build and a compelling price. What’s not to like? Tudor Heritage Black Bay GMT Australian pricing Tudor Heritage Black Bay GMT, on bracelet, $4670
Now, it may shock you to learn that not everyone wants a watch bedecked with bezels, chronographs, and other functionality to complicate the equation. Some people are just after a nice watch that tells the time, simple as that. If that’s something that resonates with you, the Tudor Black Bay 41 is a watch you should definitely look into. Introduced a few years ago as a 36mm case with a black dial, the collection has since grown to include 32 and 41mm versions, and most recently blue dial options. Today we’re looking at the BB 41, with a blue dial. Before we get to the main talking point — the new dial — it’s worth recapping the numerous charms of the 41. While the case strongly references the ‘other’ Black Bays — those tall, straight sides, the ‘big’ crown and proud, bevelled lugs — the most notable difference is the bezel. Gone is the tool-like unidirectional dive bezel of the diver, the 24-hour scale of the GMT or the tachymeter of the Chrono. Instead, there’s a fixed bezel in polished steel. On paper it’s a minor change, but one that radically alters the look and feel of the watch. It’s still…
Dale is an airline pilot, with a love for all things cars, watches and photography. He unwinds by going for a cruise in his 1971 Datsun 240z and spending time with his family. Hi Dale, what’s your daily watch and why? I don’t have a daily watch per se, though I have my eye on a particular piece right now, so that may change soon! I bought all my watches to wear, so I tend to rotate them as much as possible. When I’m working, I tend to gravitate towards a GMT, as all our flight planning, Dep/Arrival times, weather forecasting etc. is all referenced to Zulu (GMT) time. So, generally, I most likely throw on my Breitling Avenger II GMT or Citizen Nighthawk (great grab and go). I’m a Breitling tragic, and I love the aviation history behind the brand. The original Navitimer 01 is such a classic and beautiful piece, and I have lusted over one since I started flying! One day I would like to add a vintage Navi to the collection. What else is in your collection? Have you got a favourite? I’ve finally realised I’m not a dress watch guy, so a majority of my…
Since its introduction in 2014, Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang collection has quietly been gaining momentum. The tonneau-shaped case sacrifices none of the immediate impact that Hublot is famous for, but shapes it into a more wrist-hugging form. And while the line is — as you’d expect from Hublot — full of options, this smaller, 42mm Spirit of Big Bang King Gold Blue is a real standout. The case is stunning, with the blue details providing a perfect foil to the richness of the red gold, while the smaller size makes for a watch that you could legitimately wear in more formal settings. It’s attention-seeking, but not in the same way as the Sapphire Rainbow, or one of their bright ceramic pieces, like the Red Magic. If you like the Hublot aesthetic, and are looking for a gold power watch that won’t overwhelm, this is a very solid option. Hublot Spirit of Big Bang King Gold Blue Australian pricing Hublot Spirit of Big Bang King Gold Blue, $52,700