Review – Breguet Classique Complications 3797 – Pure, Unadulterated Breguet

A compendium of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s ingenious inventions and style, the Classique Complications 3797 is a magnificent perpetual calendar tourbillon laden with nostalgia for the undisputed horological star of the 18th century. Released in 2014, the 3797 is Breguet in his purest, unadulterated form with all the ‘unmistakable signs’ of the creator and a couple of 21st-century tweaks that the maestro would surely relish. Although almost all the heavyweights of the watch scene have produced a perpetual calendar tourbillon combination – ALS Lange 1, IWC PortugieserPatek, Chopard et al. – none of them can match the historical clout and legitimacy of Breguet in this department. The 41mm case of the 3797, in rose gold or platinum, is a time capsule transporting the wearer (or in this case, the admirer) on a historical journey back in time.

6 years ago

Hands-on – Patek Philippe Ref.5270/1R Gets the Midas Touch

The combination of a chronograph and a perpetual calendar is the epitome of what Patek Philippe does best. This year we were regaled with not one but two 5270 references, one in platinum with a much-praised salmon-coloured dial and this rose gold model with an ebony dial. Dripping in 18k rose gold from head to toe, Patek’s Ref. 5270/1R is as different from its platinum brother as chalk and cheese. With the same sophisticated in-house manual-winding movement as its sibling, the 5270/1R comes with a sumptuous rose gold bracelet with the QP correctors artfully hidden in the links.

6 years ago

Hands-on – Chopard L.U.C All-in-One – The Janus watch

Chopard is now an established member of the select coterie of Haute Horlogerie manufactures and the brand’s ability to produce beautiful complications has resulted in this L.U.C All-in-One masterpiece and the equally impressive L.U.C Full Strike minute repeater, which secured the Aiguille d’Or at the 2017 GPHG.  Equipped with fourteen indications spread across two dials, the L.U.C All-in-One was originally released in 2010 to celebrate the brand’s 150th anniversary. Revisited in 2018 in two limited editions – 10 in rose gold and 10 in platinum – Chopard’s most complex model to date is fitted with the same hand-wound movement, the same 46mm case, but features design tweaks that give it a very different face.

6 years ago

In-Depth – A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual in White Gold with Grey Dial

In 1999, German watch manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne introduced the genre-defining Datograph, an in-house mechanical chronograph that many still regard as THE best in class. So, how does one improve on the ultimate purist chronograph? Well, if you’re A. Lange & Söhne, you make it even more complicated, which is exactly what it did in 2006 with the introduction of the Datograph Perpetual (this one). To this day, debate still rages among collectors as to which is the more desirable. There seems to be one point that just about everyone can agree on, however; the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual is one seriously incredible timepiece. To show you exactly why, we’re going in-depth with the white gold/grey dial version introduced in 2015.

7 years ago

Introducing – Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Collection 2018 with New Openworked Movements and Slimmer Cases

When Lambert took over Montblanc, the idea was simple: bringing a lot for less money. This didn’t mean that all watches had to be affordable, but rather that watches were priced lower than expected, even with a true horological content. This gave birth to a Sub-10k Perpetual Calendar, the 4810 ExoTourbillon Slim or a sub-7k annual calendar. Following the same idea, Montblanc introduces 3 new watches in the Heritage Chronométrie collection, still complex but with new, contemporary design codes.

7 years ago

Introducing – IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar in Platinum and Portugieser Automatic in Steel (which might cause a small riot)

This year, 2018, International Watch Company or short IWC celebrates their 150th anniversary and for that reason, they launched a host of anniversary models (see here in our IWC section) and in the meantime there’s been a new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph with creme-coloured (vintage style) markers and hands and a “Laureus Edition” black ceramic Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII. And while the entire year will be all about the 150th anniversary, the Schaffhausen-based brand still adds some other novelties to the collection. There’s a new version of the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar in platinum and a steel Portugieser Automatic, that looks exactly like the older platinum version of this watch.

7 years ago

Hands-on – Bovet Recital 22 ‘Grand Recital’ – A Fascinating Astronomical Watch

Timekeeping is a child of astronomy. Everything related to the calculation of time and calendar indications has to do with the motion of the Earth, the Moon and, of course, the Sun. It is no surprise that some brands (a few brands…) use this to create complex yet fascinating watches. For its latest creation, Bovet gives a splendid horological recital conducting the Earth, the Sun and the Moon into a celestial ‘pas de trois’. Meet the captivating Bovet Recital 22 ‘Grand Recital’.

7 years ago

Review – Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G

When Baselworld 2018 opened its doors, this new watch came as a surprise. We could have expected this one to be launched for the 40th anniversary of this iconic model – which happened two years ago, with the presentation of the Platinum 3-hand 5711/1P and the White Gold Chronograph 5976/1G. Instead, Patek has decided to wait two more years to introduce the first grand complication in the Nautilus collection. After the chronograph, the annual calendar or the travel time, here is the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G.

7 years ago

Hands-on – The Contemporary Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition

For the last few years, German watch manufacturer, Glashütte Original, has been on a mission to appeal to a younger, hipper audience, and it seems to be working. Best known for its restrained, classic aesthetic (very stereotypical German, in other words), the brand has made a concerted effort to inject some colour and personality into its various line-ups. Some of my recent favourites include the Sixties Iconic Square collection, with five distinctively colourful dials, the sporty-looking Senator Chronograph Panorama Date in steel and the recent modern, yet classic, additions to the Senator Excellence collection. Now, there’s another new model to add to that list; the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition.

7 years ago

First Look – Patek Philippe 5270P Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Superb Salmon Dial

The perpetual calendar chronograph is a combination of complications that ‘belongs’ to Patek Philippe. The 5270 continues a long tradition initiated in 1941. It was introduced in 2011 with a in-house movement as the successor of the 5970, itself an evolution of the 3970 (read our article about the different generations of the 5270 here). It is now available for the first time in the noblest of all metals, platinum. And it comes with a truly stunning salmon dial that – as often with salmon dials – is elegant, unostantatious but with that very special twist.

7 years ago