Review – The Battle of Elegant Time-Only Watches Part 2 – Grand Seiko Hand-Wound SBGW231
This SBGW231, which belongs to Grand Seiko’s Elegance Collection, might not have the most seductive name, but this steel dress watch with classic aesthetics and sizing, impeccable hand-polished features, a superlative mechanical movement, and an attractive price is a rock-solid candidate for our upcoming battle of elegant time-only watches. It might not catch your eye in pictures and come across as disarmingly simple, but believe us this watch is absolutely stunning in the metal and makes up for its sobriety with refined details that underline the Japanese quest for perfection.



One of the malaises sweeping the Swiss watch industry is, in my oh-so-humble opinion, that of homogeneity. From a distance, the world from the wrist down looks remarkably similar: round, black-dialled steel sports cases in a style that sits somewhere on a spectrum between vaguely retro to full-blown reissue. I’m well aware that this isn’t a new phenomenon, but today a properly original watch design is an exception, rather than the rule. Louis Vuitton’s Tambour case is original. I mean, sure, it’s round and sporty, but it is also possessed of a really interesting case, with an inwardly curving profile that looks like it was actually designed by a person, rather than a committee. And it’s not just the case — the whole kit and caboodle is dramatically different from what you’d expect from a Swiss watch, which is unsurprising because the visual identity and IP of Louis Vuitton is so strong, and so pervasive. There are versions of the Tambour in the house’s famous motifs, but this option is a little more — for lack of a better word — stealthy. For all that the palette is monotone, this is not a shy watch. There’s that aforementioned sweeping profile,…



The Master collection has been a staple in Longines’ catalogue for some time, epitomising the sort of casual elegance for which the bramd is so well known. The latest member of this family — the Longines Master Moonphase — continues to offer the strong combination of timeless style and well-integrated small complications that we saw last year with the clever Annual Calendar model. This time around the additional functionality is taking more of a romantic bent — in the form of a moon phase and pointer date combination. Before we dial in on the complication, let’s take a look at the overall picture. The new Longines Master Moonphase models are offered in either 40 or 42mm cases, with a range of dials — black or silver barleycorn, a fine textured pattern that is a hallmark of the Master line, and this version, in a blue sunray finish. This version is also the larger 42mm version with restrained applied baton markers (the smaller blue offering adds some top Wesselton diamond hour markers into the mix, if you’re looking for a bit of bling). The combination of classical case shape, versatile modern case size and on trend blue dial treatment add up…