Hands-on – Glashütte Original PanoMaticCounter XL
German watch manufacturer Glashütte Original has always done things its own way. Its watches are characterised by classic designs that invariably incorporate a quirky modern twist or two, appealing to connoisseurs and iconoclasts alike. Just look at the PanoGraph if you’re not sure what I mean. For whatever reason, however, Glashütte Original doesn’t always attract the same level of media attention as some of its peers, which means there are quite often hidden gems to discover. One such model is the PanoMaticCounter XL, which we’re taking a closer look at today.
Most of Grand Seiko’s mechanical watches are built around one base — the 9S calibre, which turns 20 years old this year. The brand has celebrated with a series of limited editions, and this, the SBGM235, is the latest. Coming from the brand’s elegance collection, the SBGM235 follows the same fundamental form as the cream-dialled SBGM221, with a 39.5mm round steel case, and the 24 scale nested neatly inside the typically faceted and polished Grand Seiko hour markers. And while the fundamental design of the watch may be familiar, it’s the details that stand out. On the back, the 9S66 movement is celebrated with a commemorative caseback in Grand Seiko’s distinctive dark blue. And while that’s nice, it’s the dial where the action is. Like other 9S commemorative models, the dial is printed with a radial mosaic pattern, a pretty repeating motif of ‘G’ ‘S’ and the older Daini Seikosha logo. And while the other 9S anniversary pieces make liberal use of colour, the SBGM235 keeps it clean with a plain silver dial, with the exception of the GMT functions (hands and hour indicators) in blue. It’s a classy and distinguished Grand Seiko that wears well on the wrist, and…
Story in a second: All the complications you could possibly want in a Panerai, in a small(er) package. There’s something about Panerai that I’ve always found fascinating. I don’t know if it’s because of the instantly recognisable shape of the case, the origins of the brand as a supplier of wrist-worn diving instruments to the Italian Navy, or simply the fact that they have got a certain presence on the wrist. Whatever it is, I’ve always wanted to get one, but it took a little while for me to find the right one. Other than the fact that they represent a fairly sizeable investment, I was concerned that the typical 44mm or 47mm models would look too bulky on my wrist. This all changed recently, when I got my hands on the *takes a deep breath* Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Power Reserve Automatic Acciaio 42mm, better known as the PAM01537. The dial The dial itself is black, with a beautiful “Clous de Paris”, or Paris hobnail textured pattern, which, rather romantically, takes inspiration from the streets of Paris. The luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers are in the classic Panerai style, easily legible in any environment. The watch has two…
Few things are as tactile and pleasing as manually winding a watch, and I’ve got to say the levels of satisfaction achieved in watching the power reserve indicator on this plus-sized Portofino are pretty intense. On one level it’s because there’s a lot of winding to be had, thanks to the eight days of power, but partially I think the joy is simply because this large 45mm red gold watch just feels great — heavy, substantial and downright powerful. At its heart, the Portofino is a dressy watch. Simple, refined, with a curvaceous case inspired by the pocket watches of yore. But the Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase is no diminutive dress option. It’s as bold as a Big Pilot, but still somehow delicate. The expansive dial looks wonderful in shimmering slate grey — a colour that pairs exceptionally well with the red gold hands, markers and case, and manages to encompass the diverse displays of moonphase, sub-seconds, date and power reserve without looking cluttered or busy. No mean feat. For me, though, what I like most about this watch isn’t visible from the front – it’s the big, beating heart of the watch, the mighty Calibre 59800, which makes the…
Quartz isn’t something that comes across my desk too often, so you know when it does that it’s something special — and this Grand Seiko is definitely something special. There’s a handful of truly exceptional, iconic quartz movements out there, and the 9F is amongst the finest. And now, with the addition of a GMT, the 9F just got that much cooler. So before we get to the watch, let’s talk about what makes the movement so special. This year, the 9F turns 25, and it is — in the best way possible — completely over the top. It’s super accurate (regular versions are within 10 seconds a year, though this specially regulated version is good to within five seconds a year), thanks to the in-house, specially aged quartz crystals to optimise the frequency, and thereby accuracy. There are numerous other smart micro-engineering features, like the backlash to ensure a crisp seconds hand function and a super quick date change. All this adds up to ensure the movement is a serious piece of horology. And it’s finished like one, too, with the sort of jewelling and striped perlage you’d expect on a fine mechanical. This new movement, the 9F86, takes the 9F…