VIDEO: Andrew’s top 3 picks of SIHH 2019 over $35k
If the over $35,000 price point is not the most crowded at SIHH, it is equal to the 20-35k bracket before it. There are a lot of watches to choose from. From Baume & Mercier, with a well-priced perpetual calendar that dropped just over 35kAUD, to Richard Mille’s sweet Bonbon confection, practically all brands were in the arena for this podium call – though only three made it. One other small note about this bracket: this year we isolated the high complications to their own category, which means that all those people listing VC and JLC in their lists on YouTube, vying to win a handmade sterling silver Time+Tide lapel pin, are technically correct as they’re over 35k, but they might just make an appearance in their own big show, coming soon. Sorry, we tweaked the rules just a little there! To watch Felix and I talk through my selections, hit the video. If you’re impatient, see below. Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Tourbillon Really tough call here, with a strong showing from Vacheron this year (that Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin has kept me up at nights) but in the end I “ate with my eyes” and preserved the shock factor of seeing…
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My last list — a trio of well-priced SIHH offerings — could be neatly broken down into a loose theme of air, sea and land. But this trifecta, covering the much broader $10,000 – $35,000 price bracket, is much less easily pigeon-holed. But if I had to find commonalities I could well go with elegant shapes. The Piaget Polo S A case of a simple change making a big difference, I like this rich green take on the sporty Polo S so much more than I would have expected. It’s an absolute cracker, and a real change in personality from the blue. The Cartier Santos de Cartier Chronograph Next up, from Cartier, the masters of shaped watches, is the new Santos de Cartier Chronograph. This is a bit of a funny pick for me, as chronographs, especially more dressy ones, aren’t typically my bag. But there you go, the combination of beefed-up Santos case (not that it needed beefing) and unusual chronograph system won me over. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds There’s not much new or novel here to win me over. It’s not a new watch, or even a new case. It’s simply a new colour — rich red…
Materials innovation is looking like quite a thing in 2019 and for you, the watch buyers, that has to be good news: more aesthetic choices and (hopefully) better performance. Which brings us to IWC’s new Top Gun Double Chronograph Ceratanium. Ceratanium? It’s a naturally matt-black finish, but differs from PVD/DLC in one crucial respect: rather than a coating, it’s integral to the base material (its name being a contraction of ceramised and titanium). It’s the product of five years R&D within IWC, and is made by first milling the parts (case, pushers and crown) from a titanium alloy, then subjecting them to intense heat. The composition of the alloy triggers what IWC calls a “diffusion” process, which transforms the structure of the alloy’s surface into ceramic. The result is a best-of-both worlds material – as light and unbreakable as titanium, and as hard and scratch-resistant as ceramic. What’s more, being part of the material itself, the finish cannot chip or wear off as a coating might. To the eye it looks deeply black, with neither sheen nor texture, but seeming to absorb every last suggestion of light. In the hand, the watch feels light yet very substantial. Although Ceratanium isn’t…
Baume & Mercier’s foray into the world of in-house movements resulted in one of the biggest value propositions of 2018, the Clifton Baumatic. Well, this year the simple steel watch with an impressive five-day power reserve was the subject of a stylish makeover, in the form of a blue dial. But not just any blue. The cadran bleu, as it’s called, is a deep, dark graduated blue that veers strongly into black territory at its outer limits. It’s not as bold or flashy as some other graduated blue dials, but it’s also a lot more mysterious as black. Dial change aside, everything else is business as usual. The case is 40mm, and the watch comes either on leather (my pick) or a five-link bracelet. The movement is also offered in COSC or non-COSC variants. The COSC option features a sector-style crosshair on the dial. Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Cadran Bleu pricing Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Cadran Bleu, from 2400 euro, including tax.
2019 is shaping up to be the year of the Submersible for Panerai, with the brand hitting hard with a collection full of their most modern takes on the dive watch. And one of the coolest is the Submersible Luna Rossa, a very cool carbon fibre number made to honour their brand new partnership with the 36th America’s Cup challenger of record, team Luna Rossa, and their AC75. The first watch in this partnership is a 47mm large Carbotech case, and the material takes on a completely different, much more stealthy characteristic here than on the previous Carbotech model, thanks to the complementary dial and rubber strap. The dial is quite interesting too, a textured black that is literally textured, given that pieces of the sail of the Luna Rossa have been applied to it. On top of that, there’s a GMT, one of the few flashes of colour in this otherwise monochromatic landscape (the other is the small seconds at nine). The movement, hidden behind a titanium back engraved with the boat, is the P.9010 Manufacture movement. The complete package is rated to 30 bar.
Feelings. We all have them. They make us human. They make us who we are. But sometimes they can get the better of us. Like, remember when Tudor released the Black Bay chronograph? Boy, that seemed controversial at the time. And then there was the new Rolex Air-King. Holy smokes! Who could forget all this madness? Neither, however, has caused quite the unholy shitstorm of hurt feelings like the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59, released officially last night at 8pm Geneva time, from whence we lay our scene. We thought it would be appropriate, as a sign of our care and respect for you all – and for once we have unanimity across the broad church that is Time+Tide, so we can speak to you as one – that we suggest some calming techniques. We don’t want to lose anyone over this, so please, try one or several of the following to regain control. If symptoms persist, and you find yourself compulsively commenting on all possible threads about the subject, either see a doctor or remind yourself it’s just a watch. 1. TAKE A FUCKING CHILL PILL Not figuratively, literally. There is a vitamin called a chill pill, and it might be a…
It’s one sleep to SIHH, and the watch releases are coming thick and fast, with many of the exhibiting brands giving us a peek at some of their highlight releases. And while some pieces have raised a little more than eyebrows (hello AP!), I’ve got a feeling that for many brands, the best is yet to come. So here is my lightning fast list of what I’m eagerly anticipating (and hoping to see) at SIHH 2019. Audemars Piguet Yep. Code 11.59 is, for better or worse, the talk of SIHH even before the doors are open. And while it’s an unexpected move, I’m going to reserve judgement until I see them IRL. Jaeger-LeCoultre Last year, Jaeger-LeCoultre surprised many with its pivot to the sporty Polaris. And while their teaser campaign suggests something highly complicated, I’m kind of jonesing for some hot new takes on the Polaris (Polar dial Polaris, anyone?) Vacheron Constantin Vacheron Constantin are always one of the technical highlights of the show. Few brands can blend artistry and exceptionally technical engineering quite so impressively. And the word on the street is that this year’s highlight is going to be BIG. Baume & Mercier To my mind, Baume &…
Over the last few years, Ulysse Nardin has been greatly expanding its Freak family (a smart move say I), and the latest member is the Freak X, which joins the Freak Out and Freak Vision. Now, before we break down this watch, a quick word about X, which is serving as something of a thematic moniker for the brand this year. It’s a good theme, evoking everything from mystery to gravity to (depending on how many Xs you use) eroticism. All things Ulysse Nardin is quite adept to translating into watch form. Though I can’t help but wonder if UN CEO Patrick Pruniaux is borrowing a trick from his former colleagues at Apple here. Either way, it works. So, the Freak X. This watch is something interesting, and if you’ve been following the evolution of the Freak recently, somewhat expected. It’s something of a hybrid watch — a pared-back Freak if you will. The trademark carousel time-telling escapement (with silicon balance wheel) is still there, but it’s now a module on top of Ulysse Nardin’s UN-118 movement. But it’s more simple in execution than its siblings: there’s less gear and wheel action going on, and there’s a crown where you’d…
I like to imagine this time of year as an Advent calendar for watch lovers, with pre-release announcements being dropped each and every day as the countdown to SIHH 2019 ticks ever closer. Today’s delectable delight comes courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre, and not only is it new, it’s also blue, and delivers an impressively novel take on one of their classics. Say hello to the Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel. Since its beginnings in the famed Vallée de Joux, Jaeger-LeCoultre have been driven by precision. A search for accuracy that has seen the brand develop more than 1200 calibres and earned it the honourable title of “the watchmaker of watchmakers” – with many of JLC’s high-end valley neighbours calling on the manufacturer to help supply them with movements. The brand-new Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel not only displays that generations-old technical know-how but also highlights some of the Maison’s other in-house métiers, namely, their incredibly skilled handcrafts of guillochage and enamelling. Limited to 100 pieces worldwide, each dial is meticulously crafted by hand, with patience being not just a virtue but an absolute necessity during the entire manufacturing process. Culminating in a stunning combination of a captivating shade of intense blue…