What is an Exit Watch, and do I need a plan for one?
The idea of a grail watch – the would-be jewel in the crown of our collection for which we all strive – is well established. Not only does it make for some really interesting discussions over coffee, but it also helps shape your collection’s direction and deepens your understanding of the watch industry and what you want to get out of it. The term “grail watch” has been used for so long and by so many people that its meaning is already starting to change. Or, should I say, its parameters are starting to relax somewhat. Whereas originally a grail watch was assumed to be the pinnacle of your collection – the one piece that you would choose above all others were money, era or limitation no object – you often hear people using the word in the plural form. Having several “grails” might once have been seen as greedy (or even crass). But nowadays, with the practice of watch collecting an evolved art, it seems acceptable to have a grail for all seasons. Maybe a golden grail, or a quartz grail, or a diving grail … Whatever helps signpost your way towards a fine and well-rounded collection. But, with…
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The more you look at different watches, the more critical you become, as you better understand what the watchmaker and designer were trying to achieve, and how successful they were at executing it in the final watch. This year, I got a lot of opportunities to handle hundreds of different watches, both new and vintage, and after thinking for a couple of weeks about the best of the new watches, these are my five favourites of 2019. Longines Heritage Classic It unfortunately isn’t often that brands nail the details of heritage-inspired wristwatches, but for me, Longines accomplished just that with their Heritage Classic, which was released at the end of 2019. At 38.5mm in diameter and just over 12mm tall, it is well sized for pretty much any wrist, as well as being fairly accurate to the dimensions of the original watch from 1934. The sector dial is engaging while restrained, and offers the best balance of vintage and modern of any watch this year. Greubel Forsey Hand Made The Greubel Forsey Hand Made is a watch that offers an almost spiritual impression when seen in the metal, such is the depth of human ingenuity and dedication that is evident.…
I once knew a glamorous magazine editor who presided over one of the big fashion monthlies. On the inside of her delicate wrist, beneath an impeccably curated collection of designer bangles, resided a small tattoo. Inked in block-capital letters was the single word: “NOW”. This tattoo was a strategically placed reminder for her to stay “in the moment”. Instead of catastrophising about the future or getting hung up on the past, this tattoo was a note-to-self that emboldened her to stay anchored in the “here and now”. Focusing on the present, she explained, was a way of staving off anxiety. But it was also an encouragement to appreciate whatever opportunity was on the table. Which, given her role at the helm of a fashion magazine, usually involved sipping a glass of champagne at some glittery launch while pontificating on why “cyber-goth” is the Next Big Thing. This is a sign of the times: mindfulness and meditation are all the rage. The whole world has apparently learnt to close their eyes and count to Zen. Meditation has become the daily habit of almost every insanely successful person you care to mention. Arnold Schwarzenegger, George Lucas and Paul McCartney are all Om-chanting…
Very few watch straps are as integral to the overall look and feel of a watch as a bracelet can be. On occasions, the bracelet is as essential to the watch DNA as the watch head – a continuation of the same concept, snaking around the wrist. The most famous bracelet design of all time probably belongs to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, which burst onto the scene in 1972. It not only redefined the genre of steel sports watches, but it also gave the world a willing poster boy for integrated design. Gérald Genta would continue this trend with the Patek Philippe Nautilus – another legendary steel sports watch. But though these models are perhaps the best example of watches that lose a huge amount of their original message by removing the bracelet, what about those watches that aren’t so wedded to the metal band that holds them to your wrist? Does it matter that you adhere to the designer’s vision whether you like it or not? In a manner of speaking, yes it does. You may not like a bracelet design, but it is always worth buying the watch on its bracelet if the designer has gone to…
It is becoming increasingly common to see small, emerging microbrands threaten to “pull back the curtain” on the luxury watch industry, in an attempt to upend the established order and claim a slice of the suddenly democratised pie for themselves. But how effective, or even responsible a strategy is it? Is it time to stop rewarding brands for trying to blow the whistle on the inner machinations of the luxury world for the sake of the industry’s future? Lies are never good, but mystery has its place in our lives. The idea that luxury should be in any way transparent is almost, given the very nature of luxury, counterproductive. A luxury purchase is not just about the item being purchased. In fact, it often has very little to do with an item’s relative value, rather its perceived worth. There is a sense of pride in being able to access something exclusive that only luxury can sire. Having all the pomp and circumstance stripped away by a bunch of newcomers who think that it is their civic duty to shine a light on the inner workings of an industry that exists to illuminate the lives of its customers can be a…