HANDS-ON: Light in the darkness – the Seiko Prospex SNE493P
Late last year, Seiko announced a series of limited edition Prospex divers, featuring blacked-out cases and the evocative name of ‘The Black Series’. The story behind the name and the black-and-orange concept is the murky, mysterious world of night diving. But honestly, for me this watch is less about the story behind it and more about the sheer hotness of the watches. It’s fair to say that the darling of the trio is the SRPC49K, a stealthy take on their popular ‘Turtle’. But there are two other options in the mix. We’ll look at the chronograph tomorrow, but today we’re focusing on the three-hander, which is perhaps the most conventional of the three. Formally known as the SNE493P1, this 43.5mm cased watch is the epitome of a classic dive watch, albeit in a much darker livery than usual. The dark case doesn’t have any impact on legibility, with a multi-layered dial dominated by the large hour markers filled with a rich, orange/tan luminous materials and a familiar Seiko diver’s handset, with a bold, neon orange minutes hands, a choice driven by the strict visual hierarchy of a dive watch — where the minutes are more critical than hours. There’s also…
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“Money likes silence.” Several years ago, a Russian collector by the name of Nikolai (he prefers not to publish his surname) was telling me why he’s so keen on A. Lange & Söhne, and I was struck by that part of his reply. While he meant it to sum up the ‘stealth’ appeal of Lange’s designs (discreet elegance; the antithesis of vulgarity), it also begged the question: what does make Lange so distinctive? A. Lange & Söhne is not what we think of as a “design brand” (the term suggests something altogether more conspicuous or self-consciously groovy) and yet its design language is not only unmistakable but also an intrinsic part of its being. We live in the Age of Noise: advertising noise, entertainment noise, social media noise – all adding to the general cacophony of daily living. So, given that a Lange watch announces its specialness with a whisper, not a shout, how does it make itself heard? The very quietness of Lange’s design is the answer, I think. A couple of years ago, Paul Tange, a prominent Tokyo-based architect and keen Lange collector, summed up the beauty of Lange’s design to me in the simplest terms: “Aesthetically, the…
From the first days of my downward spiral into my geeky obsession with horology, the world of the independent watchmakers has always held a warm place in my heart. Even when the Swiss watch industry was filled with doom and gloom, these small passion-fuelled outfits forged ahead, creating new and innovative releases at a time when the big-box brands were doing their best to stay afloat by releasing an endless flood of dial variations and other minor updates. In recent years, this unique microcosm of watchmaking has continued to see growing interest from the collecting and enthusiast community at large, as more and more watch fans develop a taste for high watchmaking that skews a little outside the norm. This year at SIHH I spent an inordinate amount of time in the Carré des Horlogers — the show’s independent watchmaking hub, and my “home away from home”, if you will — to take an in-depth look at what the industry’s more creative minds have cooked up for the new year. Here’s what I uncovered. Richard Mille RM 53-01 Tourbillon Pablo Mac Donough Squeezing Richard Mille onto this list involved a bit of debate, as in terms of market presence and…
